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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 12:02 am 
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I've seen the day 2 video. I think he can manage.


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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 9:15 am 
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Here's day 2 for everyone else
https://youtu.be/G7yG70vQYYg

Also a beta version of the CNC r kit popped up yesterday for $100 so I grabbed it. The guy who had it didn't have time to mess with it, not that I have time either but its for the kids so :)


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 9:19 pm 
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Day 3
https://youtu.be/gGPw7sgh25g


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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 10:08 pm 
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Day 4
https://youtu.be/NM7FLDLpAqo


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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 11:04 am 
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Hey Mark, I've been quietly following your Frankenferrari and other projects for years and I finally feel like I have something to contribute. I've been doing the consumer-level 3D printing thing for about 5 years now. I took the long hard road and built my own printers from scratch since kits were not really available until fairly recently.

I'm not specifically familiar with the FT-5, but I can tell you that in the world of 3D printer kits, you get what you pay for. Lower price point kits have cheaper parts but the good thing is, you can always print out a new part! As long as the frame is solid, you can customize everything else. You and your son will have fun with this. Lots of cool stuff to make. Have a look at http://thingiverse.com to see the thousands of things contributed by the open source community.

On the topic of sanding/polishing the parts, if you're using ABS, there's a trick known as an "acetone vapor bath" to smooth out the layers:

http://sinkhacks.com/building-acetone-v ... ted-parts/


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 7:45 am 
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Awsome!

A couple guys already pointed me toward thinkiverse.....I'm eyeing a turn your phone into a scanner project I saw there :)

The build has slowed...some of the melemine parts are weak and spongy and will need to be replaced....so I need to dig out the mill and bandsaw.

I knew of "chemical polishing" from a past line in plastic fabrication and had seen the term acetone vapor on a few printer sites but had not really looked at it....I'd be afraid for blowing something up trying to do that....and that from the guy who set his house on fire ;)


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 9:11 am 
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I d a place that is just coming out with a line of billet replacement parts for the FT-5 printer
http://713maker.com/ft5.html

oh thats right...you can hotrod your printer...so I ordered a few things :)

While I wait I'll try to get the patio chairs painted for Lana so I'm not in trouble.


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PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2017 2:31 pm 
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When I made my first printer, it was basically a POS but worked well enough to print out a set of parts to make a better printer. I think the self-replication aspect is the coolest part about having a 3D printer.

Doing an acetone vapor bath is reasonably safe as long as long as there is no ignition source nearby. The other option is to just brush some acetone onto the ABS part. It doesn't work quite as well but it does make it look better. Also, unless your printer has a heated bed, don't even think about using ABS because it's just an exercise in frustration. ABS has such a high contraction rate that the edge of your parts will lift off the print bed during printing. A heated bed helps keep the ABS from cooling off too fast and curling. Lots of people nowadays are using heated enclosures to keep everything warm (about 60 degrees C) to avoid part deformation. As a starting point, I would recommend printing in PLA instead. It's much more forgiving and doesn't lift off the print bed as easily.

Replacing frame pieces with billet are a definite upgrade. Anything that increases the rigidity of the frame will help the precision and quality of your prints. Those are some nice looking pieces offered by 713maker.com .


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2017 8:43 am 
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Chemical polishing is very common and effective but it really has to be done carefully so nothing blows up. Most hot plates use a simple bimetalic switch that sparks every cycle....fuel vapor + air +spark=bomb

I have a heated bed, but I'm told stock it's only marginally adequate and should be upgraded.....a 12x12 silicone pad at 120V seems to be the ticket. Also they say for tall stuff (printer has a 16"build height) sides are needed.

I'm not sure yet what to do about rigidity. I'm sure it will print ok as is but the cnc router upgrade worries me a lot. If I need sides for heat they can be used as shear plates or I could add diagonals....i want to get it working to see about acces and such before deciding what to change/add I guess.


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2017 9:44 am 
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Back to work, day 5 video

https://youtu.be/IA9FBj3tKz0


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