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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 3:36 am 
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It's actually on the cold side, purely for packaging reasons; hot oil will be warming up the "cold" coolant before it goes into the engine. Sweeeet! :lol:
I've read there's usually only about 10 degrees difference between the hot and cold sides... I haven't measured yet, though. The Northstar has a recirculating thermostat, so it should be pretty stable and consistent in terms of temperature.
The Northstar has provision in the pan for an oil level switch. I'll install the Corvette switch assembly which includes an oil temperature sensor as well as the level switch. I'll figure out whether to run it to my dash gauge and toggle between oil and coolant temp with a switch or what.

I think I'll start off with 15W40 and see what temps it runs, then try 10W30 and see what temps it runs, as well as other indicators like noise at start-up, etc.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 3:39 am 
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The lower crank case was 0.007 thickness difference from end to end, so the machinist will have to skim the bottom surface in order to make it parallel, THEN flip it over and skim the block mating surface. Thanks, GM.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 7:23 am 
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those things happen...its only money. He cold shim it too...just put feeler gauges under where the clamps will go to get the top flat....probably quicker but then its still out 7 if it needs work in the futrue....although he may need to shim it anyway, taking exactly 2 on the whole surface is pretty hard. normally I'd thing you tske at least the 2 and plan a quick hone through the mains to even it out just in case.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 5:44 pm 
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why not just upgrade? Bidding is currently 4200
https://www.autoblog.com/2020/08/31/fak ... o-auction/


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Here's the money shot and partly why it won worst in show


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 5:57 pm 
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I'm sure the V9 runs great! :mrgreen:

Aside from being ugley as F@#$%... it doesn't even look like the bodywork is any wider than stock. Judging by the wheels, it's probably narrower.

I have no idea how someone can put any kind of effort into that.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 5:59 pm 
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Yeah, sorry.....


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 5:04 pm 
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mk e wrote:
Yeah, sorry.....


Yeah right. :P

//

Before skimming the lower crank case, my clearances were looking like:

0.0037
0.0036
0.0039
0.0036
0.0038

Now they're looking like:

0.0026
0.0028
0.0033
0.0033
0.0033

While 3, 4 & 5 being the same looks good, the main bearing bores are:

2.8524
2.8529
2.8535
2.8536
2.8538

There's probably nothing to make of the fact that the #5 main bore is 0.0003 larger than the #3, while the bearing clearance is the same.

All of these measurements are based on the average of four tripod bore mic measurements, so I don't actually get the pure diametral measurement from the middle of the top shell to the middle of the bottom shell which is supposed to define "bearing clearance".

Yes, the bores did end up tapered. The prototype machinist took slightly more off the front of the casting than off the rear. Oops.
So they were on the high side but runable before, now they're smaller without being too small. That's about all I could hope for from that operation.

It's not as perfect as I would have liked, but it's better.
I guess if I got really obsessive I could order another set of bearings and have Line-2-Line coat them heavier, then pull from that set to create select-fit bearing shells to bring 3, 4 & 5 down just a touch.

Now... on to ProMar!

//

Top rings are at Total Seal getting lateral gas ports cut into them.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 5:16 pm 
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Also, the after shot of last touch-ups on the bay-to-bay breathing ports

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 5:14 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:

Top rings are at Total Seal getting lateral gas ports cut into them.


Well.... I was kind of surprised they'd work with me on used rings. I guess we're both learning something.
They tried cutting the gas ports into the tops of my rings, and chipped the moly face coating.

We're still figuring out where things are going from here. I do need to get this resolved before I take the block to ProMar.

Most of me hopes we'll come up with something that drops in and lets me move forward with assembly and installation expeditiously.

A little piece of me thinks about the way that having a non-standard overbore has occasionally bitten me and wants new 12:1 hollow dome pistons (currently 11.5 solid dome) at a standard overbore...

The potential issue is that the very first set of gapless rings I tried didn't live up to my QC expectations (YEARS ago). That's not exactly TS's fault, as they had to start with a vendor's ring at that bore size and then make it gapless. The thickness variation across the set was >0.0015, IIRC. That meant that the grooves couldn't be cut for 0.001 side clearance. I had TS lap the rings via their Diamond Finish process, and that brought the thickness variation down to the level that CP was able to cut the grooves with 0.001 side clearance. This is very important for controlling ring flutter in order to make power at high RPM.

However, that also means that my rings and grooves are thinner/narrower than the standard 1.5mm rings, so either I need to have any new rings lapped or get new pistons, neither of which are cheap options.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 11:40 am 
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Well... technology has advanced. My older rings are steel, but with plasma moly facing.
TS is going to replace them with stainless steel with a PVD coating (Don't know what the coating is... they just say it's PVD, but that's a deposition method, not a material).

Since they were taking a risk in trying to modify my rings, but still messed them up, we're going to meet in the middle on payment.

So I'll get a set of lapped rings with 0.001"ish side clearance PLUS later gas ports on top, which is what I wanted to end up with.

I'm not sure how soon I can make the appointment to have the block honed.

Now I'll have to gap the new rings. Bleh. That sucks.

Also, the race shop is done with my rotating assembly, but I wasn't able to pick it up last weekend.


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