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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2021 5:59 am 
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Hahaha, funny, I‘ve got a toothbrush advertising before your video :lol: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 10:26 pm 
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So I have been honing every night all week and all day today and here's where it sits....Everything worth trying to hone is honed and pretty round and straight. The old hone just loved to do a wobble at the top and cleaning it up took out a lot of material. I kind of worked from worst to best so by about 1/2 way though I knew the goal was get it in the 1-2 thou over pile.

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Tomorrow when I'm fresh I'll remeasure and sped the day futzing to get them matched as well as I can and a nice finish on all of them and hopefully dump the oil in the recycle bucket and pack the home up to go home to Wade....couldn't have done the job without it but after tomorrow I'm hoping to never see it again :lol:

About lunchtime today I decided the oil in the tank was more sludge than oil so I switched from my WD-40+motoroil mix to the goodson honing oil.....and was surprised how slow it cut so I poured about 1 quart of mineral spirits in which fixed it right up.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 20, 2021 10:55 pm 
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MerlinTech wrote:

Yeah, never jerking your chain. Just trying to help out. I will say, 10 or 12 years ago when I started following this build, I never thought I would be helping.


I missed this post... I knew you were trying to help, I just didn't believe how frikin HUGE the difference was between the hones. I honestly thought is was a chevy vs porsche discussion, not a worthless vs functional discussion as it turned out to be.

And I have to say that 10-12 years ago I never imagined the I'd STILL be working on it after 13 years :oops:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2021 7:45 pm 
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The odyssey has ended, the cylinders are honed, the mess cleaned up. These are not the best cylinders ever produced but they are no doubt the best I've ever produced. Before I owner a bore gauge every cylinder I ever touched was within a 1/2 thou of target and perfectly round and straight......now I know better. I kind of wish hadn't fitted a 1/10th indicator to the gauge so I know exactly how not perfect they are. 10 are within 4 tenths which is the modern OEM spec so not it looks awful on my huge gauge, its right. The other 2 are 7 and 10 tenths and I just could get them better without making a new fixture....but even those 2 are better than anything I've done in the past so I'm going to call it pretty good and be satisfied if not completely happy....I really wish I had not change the indicator on the gauge.

Tomorrow I will clean up the home and get it packed up for shipping home with a big THANK YOU to Wade. Also I need to pack up the pistons so get them shipped for coating. My plan will be to get the main bearings clearances set properly while I'm waiting on the pistons....then put it together :D

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2021 7:29 am 
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My bore gauge only reads 1/2 thousands. It is bad enough, I can't think of how much fun it is chasing 1/10s.
I will get the line bore bar ready to ship. It is a big heavy bar and I am not sure how I will ship yet. let me know what size your are, I have two & make sure you need it before I try and ship it.
It may be a better option to have a line hone go through it at a machine shop. I have done this as well, it can be much faster than a lapping bar which is really just old school hand machining.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2021 10:24 am 
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And a super easy to read 3.5" face tenth gauge so there 's no excuse.
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The main bores are 2.625" it looks like. The block was line bored and honed last time but the guys at the shop said things were just a little off....that could be the heat cycles or it could be me :cleaning up" surfaces...not sure. It was so close they really didn't want to rehone it which got me to lapping where needed.

Wade, can you mic the lapping bar and tell me exactly what size it is? I'm guessing 1-2 thou under? I can order a 2.625" steel bar that is +0/-.0005 and sand it down in the lathe or for 1/2 the price +0/-.004 that might show up perfect....maybe :?:


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2021 10:23 am 
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Do you know what I did on the car last night? Nothing! I'm pushing pretty hard to having it running for spring and Lana has quite a growing list for me but decided I deserved a break last night.

Tonight I'll pack up the pistons. The coating place says 10 day turnaround, plus shipping times I guess 3-4 weeks so I need to get to it.

Fitting the crank properly is next. Because the block readings were coming out a bit wonky I had the machine shop leave the crank on the high spec for -.010 undersize and will line lap the main journals. Shipping a lapping bar without damaging it means a create and still worrying so I asked Wade to measure his bar and it's 6 tenths undersize so I ordered a 24" long x 2.625 Dia (+0/-.0005) ground steel bar from mcmaster....but not in keeping with mcmaster reputation for EVERYTHING is in stock and delivered the next day, they said 2 week delivery. 24" long is $193, 36" which would probably be better is $280....but 24" fits in my lathe so I can sand it down to the desired OD relatively easily and will just make it end to end in the block if I weld on an extension so I can turn it. Hopefully this will be all done by the time the pistons arrive home.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 7:47 am 
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I would recommend cutting some grooves in the bar as well. It will help hold the lapping compound and helps the job go easier.
Go slow and measure often. Also, turn the block to allow the bar to weigh on the area that needs attention. Once I have the block saddles in full contact, I make sure the caps are down and the bar is resting its weight there. I think it helps to not cut the block more than needed. Careful measuring of the size and plain of the bore is important. Know what high spots you need to knock down and start there. Once the block saddles are true, then concentrate on getting them all the right size. Don't need to have them all torqued as you work on getting everything straight, once you have it all straight, then torque it all up and work to size. I start with the caps loose because you can't turn the bar with them tight. Did I mention go slow? Yeah, do that.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 1:12 pm 
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So here I has all set to just use my new bore gauge to check all the main bearings then either lap the journal or sand the cap to get them all to size, a couple hours work max.....and then Wade comes along and shames me into doing the job properly and making sure they are straight first. Now I understand why he was annoyed with me when I told him my original lapping bar plan did not include a bar long enough to hit all 7 journals at once while I was thinking 3 at a time was plenty of what I had in mind :oops:

Something that occurred to me a couple weeks ago is I never checked the size on the cam journals really, at least not in anything like a proper way so I think I'm going to disassemble the heads again and get them torqued on the block and make certain all is right there while I wait for the lapping bar since I need the heads on for the lapping anyway...because that is what Wade would do :)


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 7:17 pm 
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mk e wrote:
So here I has all set to just use my new bore gauge to check all the main bearings then either lap the journal or sand the cap to get them all to size, a couple hours work max.....and then Wade comes along and shames me into doing the job properly and making sure they are straight first. Now I understand why he was annoyed with me when I told him my original lapping bar plan did not include a bar long enough to hit all 7 journals at once while I was thinking 3 at a time was plenty of what I had in mind :oops:

Something that occurred to me a couple weeks ago is I never checked the size on the cam journals really, at least not in anything like a proper way so I think I'm going to disassemble the heads again and get them torqued on the block and make certain all is right there while I wait for the lapping bar since I need the heads on for the lapping anyway...because that is what Wade would do :)


It was a pain, but all the futzing I did on my Northstar block last summer paid off...
-Torque up the mains and install/remove the outer case half bolts and the mains don't change
-Bolting up the heads only pulls the mains about 0.0001
-I really needed to install steel inserts for that work, as I'd pull the main bolts out with aluminum shavings on them

Speaking of which, have you time-serted your main and head bolt holes?


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