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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2021 11:01 am 
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I probably posted this before but these are the tools I made to toque the heads. the longer one is from the QV engine days and mostly fit the TR too and the short one is for the 2 nuts on the chain end of the front/left head that I had to shorten 3/4" to fit the timing cover which left JUST enough room to toque the nuts using wretch shaped exactly right, which took me a couple tries to make work.

The engine stand works great for moving the engine around but not so great for torqueing so I strap it to the big heavy welding table.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2021 6:21 pm 
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This morning it was torque the heads down, then give the cams some love.  First was just confirm that the lapping bar still fit and turned freely with the heads on, which it did. and since the bar is a little larger and stiffer than the cams, I now the cams will spin free were the valve removed. 

My biggest concern was the journal sizing.  Way back I borrowed a head reamer that look like this:
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All the welding I did warped the heads in both x and y...I forget...but 15-20 though each comes to mind.  I welded up the journals then ball milled them straight but undersize and used the ferrari tool reamer that hits them all at the same time with the head torqued in place to finish it off.....but the reamer was a bit dull and I never actually checked the finished size, I just said "I reamed it, it has to be right!" which I know fully understand is not true.  

With the head on the bench and no valves installed  the cams didn't seem to really sit in properly so a few months back I lapped the journals and then the cams di drop in nice....but I really had no idea what size the journals now were because for a second time, I didn't measure them.  Yes, I am that stupid it seems and its started to worry me a bit because if they were right before, after all I reamed them, so now  Today I didn't measure exactly but I did at least plastigauge them and they were all in spec....which is great but I'm pretty sure means they were undersize before and they are using the full spec range but I hesitate to tighten up the loser ones because lose means the lapping was trying to straighten  them out I'm pretty sure so I'm calling them good.
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So now its sitting with the heads on and cams in.  Tomorrow I'll measure to see if the crank will fit with the journals as-is so I can have a look at the timing chain while i wait for the lapping bar metal.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 7:28 am 
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Very nice, it is getting there. You will be making noise very soon I think.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2021 10:12 pm 
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That is a pretty piece of aluminium! So good to see progress - you must be very happy!

John


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 6:27 pm 
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The stupid bore gauge gave me a lot of bad news today....i do not like this tool :(

Last time when I went to assemble the engine the mains were pretty loose when I plastigauged them. I had the bearing coated and it was bettersih but..now I understand why. I had the block linebored and honed so I believed it to be correct.....my stupid bore gauge says they are 1-3 thou oversize, which of course explains the loose bearings. This is checking perpendicular to the boltsp/slit line, they are 0-1 over as close to the split as I can check. to be fair to the shop they didn't have the heads to install but to be fair to me, the average is still +0.5-1.5 thou over which is where they must have finished it. I'll deal with this once the lapping bar arrives I guess.

The other bad news is liner bores....they aren't round. I was told to expect 2 thou out and that is true for some, the worst is closer to 10 and totally unacceptable. hmmmmm.........the why things worked out the 12 liners that finished up the best was a set of 6 new and 6 old. The 6 new are much rounder than the 6 old over-all. I had 1 old left on the floor (I pitched the rest months ago) and 6 new to look at. A change that I remember making is the spigot OD...the new is 1 thou larger nominal and even at that it might be looser than it should be and the one old I picked up had some taper in the spigot too. So they are all tight at the deck which is easy enough to correct (remember I said they went in tight and I thought about fixing right then but waited to measure), and 6 have pretty loose spigots which seems like a job for JBweld since there is really no load, it just needs to fill the space and Amazon is bringing a pro size tube Thursday. Hopefully that correct this issue.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 7:00 pm 
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mk e wrote:
The stupid bore gauge gave me a lot of bad news today....i do not like this tool :(

Last time when I went to assemble the engine the mains were pretty loose when I plastigauged them. I had the bearing coated and it was bettersih but..now I understand why. I had the block linebored and honed so I believed it to be correct.....my stupid bore gauge says they are 1-3 thou oversize, which of course explains the loose bearings. This is checking perpendicular to the boltsp/slit line, they are 0-1 over as close to the split as I can check. to be fair to the shop they didn't have the heads to install but to be fair to me, the average is still +0.5-1.5 thou over which is where they must have finished it. I'll deal with this once the lapping bar arrives I guess.


That sounds oddly like the issue I had with my block. I had prototype guy take as close as he could get to 0.001 off the lower crank case, which brought the tight bore at the front down to the lower limit and the loose bores further back down to the upper limit. One more thou off the back half of the lower crank case would have been about perfect, but I didn't quite have the jerk turned on enough to ask him to shim the loose end with a 0.001 feeler gauge and try again.

I did that based on advice from the Advanced section at SpeedTalk... the very first response was "skim the caps... done". Since the power loads are mostly perpendicularish to the split line, the clearance at the split line can be a little on the high side without hurting the bearing strength of the oil film.

Since you have individual caps and at least some capability to be a finnicky mofo--and apparently plenty of time to sneak up on it ;) --you can skim the caps 0.001 at a time until the clearance is where it should be.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 7:23 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:

That sounds oddly like the issue I had with my block. I had prototype guy take as close as he could get to 0.001 off the lower crank case, which brought the tight bore at the front down to the lower limit and the loose bores further back down to the upper limit. One more thou off the back half of the lower crank case would have been about perfect, but I didn't quite have the jerk turned on enough to ask him to shim the loose end with a 0.001 feeler gauge and try again.

I did that based on advice from the Advanced section at SpeedTalk... the very first response was "skim the caps... done". Since the power loads are mostly perpendicularish to the split line, the clearance at the split line can be a little on the high side without hurting the bearing strength of the oil film.

Since you have individual caps and at least some capability to be a finnicky mofo--and apparently plenty of time to sneak up on it ;) --you can skim the caps 0.001 at a time until the clearance is where it should be.


Yes that is the plan...but first I want the bar here to to see how straight the block is before trying to adjust all clearances. With the front and rear being tightest, I may need to lap a thou of there first lest may clearance correcting is actually flexing the crank......on to the timing chain for now.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2021 10:33 pm 
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Popped the bearing caps off and remembered some super important work....a few of the sleeves that are supposed to stay in the block were stuck in the caps. No doubt this is related to me having to re-do them all way back as part of straightening out the block after welding the shot out of it. Probably makes no difference at all but just looks wrong and since I know I need to cut the caps to fix the bearing clearance now seemed the time to fix it. Anyway, locited into the block and tomorrow when that is full strength I'll make sure the caps slip on properly.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 7:29 am 
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You can drill & tap the cap for a more proper slide hammer removal. I have done that in the past on engines I knew were going to need a lot to work to get straight. Makes taking it apart so much easier.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 8:45 am 
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Are those 14mm inner studs and 10mm outer studs?

I'm slightly surprised to see aluminum caps, although Ferrari didn't design the engine for the power you'll be making, and there are 7 of them. Of course the Northstar has an aluminum lower crank case, but it's a pretty substantial component.

I guess I'm used to looking at disassembled LS's with Gucci billet steel main caps. The Nissan VR38 has a lower crank case like the Northstar, but has steel inserts cast in place to support the main bearings. Of course that engine is also developing 600+ HP on only 4 mains.


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