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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2021 9:08 am 
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mk e wrote:
kkrace wrote:
What about hiding all the electronics in the closet next to the screen and using an IR repeater so the remotes still work.


Maybe, it is literally a water closet though so a little dangerous for electronics
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You didn't size the door so that you can bolt 19" rack mount electronics right into the door frame? :D

mk e wrote:
Yesterday the receiver came and I just couldn't help but hook everything up to see/hear it working....which turned out to be much harder than I imagined but in the end it was working and seemed pretty frikin good...its hard to describe but you real the sound as much as hear it. I had planned to watch a movie in the folding chair last night but I was struggling with a few setup issue until past my bedtime so I will delay any actual work that might make dust all over my new stuff and watch a movie tonight before I re-box most of this until the floor is in.

Right now the only electronic thing to look at is the receiver and honestly with the black on black on black color scheme they only thing to really see is the screen, you don't notice any of it...once the cabinet is black. I did apparently loos track of the sub height measurement ion the design and unless I find something I can change it will not fit under the cabinet once the floor is in :?


Looks like you can still raise the cabinet...
Great to hear you got it working!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:20 am 
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Now that I really think about it I could have designed the closet as a top and bottom with an equipment rack....but having never built anything like this that just never occurred to me before and it too late now without adding significant re-work which I'm just not interested in at the moment.

The cabinet can go up about 3/4"...and that is where I believe I was planning to mount it but a cabinet design change added a 1.5" frame that sticks down 3/4" so instead of ending up with 1.5"-1.37" for the floor and the speak fitting with .125" to spare, I instead have .625" interference. The easy solution is just raise the cabinet and put the center speaker in it rather than on it, not exactly the look I was after but functional if I can get that approved.

Fixing the video involved a firmware update and I still don't have the second video out working but I don't need it so I moved on. Fixing the sound I will go ahead and admit involved turning the volume knob....at the very beginning or setup they warned me it may be loud and to check the volume, which I did and got it reasonable for all the setup stuff.....but it turned out that while a setting of 15 was nice for setup, it was basically silent in normal use....its at 20- 25 before I hear anything to know its on ...Doh!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2021 9:19 pm 
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Is that the bladder tank for the whole house? That seems really small for a house that size.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 8:38 am 
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kkrace wrote:
Is that the bladder tank for the whole house? That seems really small for a house that size.


yup, that's it. I've never really thought about how tanks should be sized....its always seemed fine other than there is not much reserve during power out.

The cabinet get its bottom 3/4" removed, will get mounted as high as possible and if there is still an issue the Sub will lose its feet.
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the flooring arrived yesterday....a few boxes are a bit damaged, one box the literally shipped without any box, they they packed loose pieces between other boxes on the pallet? We'll probably need to get them to ship 5 or 6 replacement boxes but I can at least get started, or could if I had the floor heaters.
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Lowes had the best price on the heat because lowes coupons are easy to come by, but they don't seem to actually sell the mats, the order enters, it accepts the coupon, 15 minutes later the order cancels. Buy new coupons, reenter, same thing, split the order up, same thing so a couple days lost there. H-D has $20 off a purchase of $200 or more.....so then every heating mat is a separate order, anyway, the heat will be here in a couple days and will cost a little more than planned

This all means that in theory by say the end of next weekend I should have a floor and be ready for trim, it could easily stretch another week but....I'm close. Then I'm not sure budget wise what is anything else is getting done right now. the bar would be nice...but there is $3-5K there so it may need to wait with all the overages that have already occurred. Either way, I'm close to back to car work...very close :)


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 8:53 pm 
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mk e wrote:
kkrace wrote:
Is that the bladder tank for the whole house? That seems really small for a house that size.


yup, that's it. I've never really thought about how tanks should be sized....its always seemed fine other than there is not much reserve during power out.

The cabinet get its bottom 3/4" removed, will get mounted as high as possible and if there is still an issue the Sub will lose its feet.
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:)


I believe the tank should be sized so the pump does not come on for at least a minute with the water running full blast at a full charge and that when the pump does come on it runs for at least a minute to fill it back up and shut off. The problem with having too small a tank is the pump cycles more often and they don't cool properly and the well pump has a short life.

If you ever hear the pitch of the water change every few seconds while the toilet is filling up or you are running water it means your pressure tank has gone bad or lost its air charge and the pump is cycling on and off every few seconds as it quickly goes from the cut on to the cut off settings and it will kill your well pump in a matter of weeks. Usually means the rubber bladder has ruptured and the entire tank is filled with water. You can buy yourself many weeks by turning off your pump and draining all the water pressure and using your air compressor to fill the tank with 2 psi less than your low pressure setting on your switch. Most come on at 40 and cutoff at 60psi so you would charge the tank to 38psi with air using the Schrader valve on the top of the tank. The tank is half filled with air so from the looks you don't have much water in reserve compared to the size of the house and the number of people using it.

https://www.dultmeier.com/blog/high-pre ... sure-tank/


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 30, 2021 7:52 pm 
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whoa...is that liners finished and in the block for good? Indeed it is. The epoxy paint cleaned up nicely and I set them up to be just under to line to line fit in the block so I decided to warm the block a little before installing them....and now they are pretty round, certainly round enough to proceed.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 31, 2021 10:13 am 
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:o :shock: :lol: 8-) :D

You don't have a big party emoji, so that'll have to do.

Congrats! Big step!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2021 7:45 am 
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:D :o :mrgreen: :P 8-) :D :D
I am so happy to see progress.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 01, 2021 10:11 am 
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MerlinTech wrote:
:D :o :mrgreen: :P 8-) :D :D
I am so happy to see progress.


Me too...even if it was just a result of damaged flooring boxes holding up the work I was supposed to be doing.

Amazing what a difference bringing up the spigot ODs made....clearly I had that tolerances all wrong. It probably why I was struggling with the honing too. Fingers crossed the epoxy paint it as tough and durable as I think it is.

Main bearings next I guess.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2021 1:48 pm 
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I recall a lapping bar involved? :? That will be fun, bolt on, bolt off repeat.

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