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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
It is currently Wed May 21, 2025 5:02 am

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 26, 2025 9:15 pm 
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I distracted myself with GC height. It is about 16.4"
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We won't talk about why I decided to use the engine crane......


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2025 10:01 am 
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For me, mornings bring a calmer view of things so this rear panel that bent when the car felloff the jack that had met all spun up last night...water under the bridge.
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The trunk itself is undamaged, so no biggie
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My high tech pressure tester says the head is now sealed, that's good news
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I reset the front ride height. There is about a 1/4" of preload in the springs now so 4" under the frame is about as height as it goes unless I put a longer shock in, but 4" is the set point as all good.

Then a quick camber check
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LF=1.54 RF=1.32
LR=3.28 RR=2.43

I was targeting F=2.5, R=3 so it needs some work and I haven't checked toe but can see the front so still in a toe out condition so for sure that also needs help

Back to engine work for now.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2025 6:37 pm 
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The big leak is fixed, passenger side floor is dry. On the driver's side there is a small3" puddle the seems to be coming from either the cam cover itself or the endplate. I'll try re-sealing the end plate tomorrow since that is easy.

Changing the plug gap did nothing. Now that the start enrich is getting close to right I can see running color on the plugs and the rear bank is absolutely leaner with 2 mostly white plus, no doubt the 2 that drop. The cylinder MAPs looks fine and I did a compression test, 180-190 everywhere. I THINK what I'm seeing is that when the injectors came back from flow test I installed them in order, lowest in 1, highest in 12 and 12 is for sure the blackest...so that has to be part of the issue. Looking back to before I sent the injectors out I set +/-25% values in the trim tables. I"ll play with cylinder trims for a boit and see if I can get it happier.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 5:27 pm 
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I pulled the plugs and they looked a whole lot more right.

Still some black ones so I tweaked the trims some more and I'm back to where I was before with +/-25% numbers and that bothers me a bit. I looked over the TB sync data and its fine. Checked the TBs with a feeler guage, .003doesn't quite go through. Really thinking the trim value it the delivered fuel, not including dead time which is about 1.2ms out of a 2.2ms total pulse time so 11% of the pulse? Not to bad really.

Then I decided to go back to tuning by ear and adjust the fuel until it runs good....I'll see what the plugs look like when it cools down but it does run good...
https://youtu.be/mPuDb0cJygc?si=Z6jXbJwshRwIOLDs


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2025 7:57 pm 
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And it drives again.

The clutch is adjusted about exactly right....push the pedal its disengage and drops into gear nice, but move it at all and the car is in motion. No wasted travel at all.

It wasn't fully warm on the drive and was wanting to drop cylinders...still lean I thing but I'll look at the plugs. I did a pretty hard pull followed by a pretty hard brake and the neighbors out doing yard work did not appear amused....so I guess I did it right :lol:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2025 4:35 pm 
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I'm thinking I'm going to print a couple of these venturis that will plug into the stack.  Leave one in #12 which is my linkage attachment point and move the other around with the differential  manometer attached at the bosses.  I'm kinda guessing at a good bore, the small the stronger the signal but the more it alters flow, this is 25mm.  Just another way to check TB sync by MAF instead of MAP....and when I know they are right I'm thinking glue the linkage and be done thinking about it.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2025 4:12 pm 
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mk e wrote:
And it drives again.

So glad to hear it!


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2025 11:26 am 
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I've been playing with cylinder trim to balance the plug colors and for sure the TB adjuster have been moving so new plan is get the TBs sync'd and adjusters glued. I did a little quick math and I'm thinking my venturi mass flow meter wants to be way closer to a 6mm bore than 25mm

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But I put enough material in it to allow it to be bored to 15mm or so...because I didn't do careful math. But when I went to hit print I realized I don't have enough resin and the print so print tomorrow whenever it gets here and this is likely a Saturday job then let the glue dry over night. I'm thinking RTV or a urethane adhesive more than jbweld, at least for now.

In the meantime. Yesterday I was less happy with the clutch...it seemed to maybe drag a little into 1st and reverse so I want to give it a touch more travel.

There seems to be more brake pedal travel on hard stop then I think there should be so maybe bleed again.

It is SOOO nice having the power steering working again, what an improvement in driving pleasure. but I kinda don't love the general feel though, at least not on my couple 0.2 mile around the block drives....almost too light and there is 0 self centering going on. There are 3 assist levels for the PS and I have it in the middle but I think I need to get the toe set and maybe figure out how to check the caster before doing anything else.

and I've not address the small oil leak on the cam cover yet.

Lots to do....


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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2025 10:31 pm 
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Alignment went just like everything goes, slow and painful but I think I I have the rear in a happy place now with right about 3deg camber and just over 1mm toe-in, both wheels pretty identically pointed along the body centerline. Yay. The plan is start very neutral on toe or 0 to slightly minus in the rear and 0 to slightly out in the front. Camber I need tire temp data to know the the right numbers, but there are right numbers to get tire temps even across the width.....toe is sort of a feel thing so near 0 until I know how it feels.

It took about 4 hours to figure out how I wanted to measure everything without buying anything and then get the measurements I was after. Camber was quick, just add about 1/3 deg on the right but toe started out at about 14mm toe-in and shims had no effect because the toe slots I put in the upper a-arm frame mount were in....I won't say the wrong direction but an unhelpful direction. So upper a-arms off, and grind 3mm in the other direction. Recheck and find toe's nothing like it was...but I got it. Front tomorrow I guess and hopefully it goes a bit quicker.

Oh, rebled the the rear brakes while the wheels were off......I saw near 0 air. I'll do the front tomorrow and it there is no air there I guess raise the pedal a bit, I can't have it go to the floor on a hard stop.


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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2025 6:02 am 
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I must say the process is the most enjoyable part of this journey. You haven't left anything as is. I have learned so much just watching the process. :D

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