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I got the inlet to fit into the car but its ovaling quite a bit when I force it in so the shape is not really right and not leaving quite enough room for the filter. This one I buggered a bit when I was making it and I ended up grinding, bondoing and reglassing to get it decent....but it was now too wide so I split it to cut out a section and took the opportunity to clean up the inside and realized I could remove all the bondo from the inside leaving a smooth light shell the correct shape, you can kind of see the rings that are left in the top pic. That gave my the path on how to fix the filter fitting and I added bondo to the side where I saw there was space between the inlet and filter, then I'll glass over it, then grind it out from the inside, then put the halves back together, then a layer of glass on the inside and stuff the inlet in place before it hardens. Easy, what could possibly go wrong?

You'd be hard-pressed to do worse flares, IMO. It's a shame because so much else is so amazing - especially the reproduction Campy wheels.

Sadly those are factory fairs, they were an option and yes very ugly but a standard late 60s early 70s style so.....

Wow. Nothing like taking an all-time great design and then just welding some Harbor Freight trailer fenders to it.

BTW - did you notice the mention (and demonstration) of the instant startup system? Pretty goddamn rad. I don't need it, but I want it.

instant start= BAD! for race engines

The OEMs all go on that kick and there are a lot of clever trigger systems to let engines start faster (the saving position at shutdown is new to me though and is something my ecu could do I'm pretty sure}. Al the modern mass market cars now run 0w30 or similar oil and build oil pressure at the bearings quite fast so its ok...but on and engine that wants 20w50 for warm/hot operation the cold oil pressure takes a few revs to happen so you[re running with no oil pressure every start if you run a quick start setup. I actually do the opposite...I programmed the ecu not to even allow it to start until there is oils pressure won't start until there is oil pressure

I don't need that either but now somehow I want it, too.

What's that? I want two mutually exclusive things? What else is new, man?

I realized the whole trying to flex it and coat the inside was just plain silly so what I  did was trim the halves until they fit then built up the outside where I could now that it was trimmed to clear the tiny spots.



Then glass over the bondo


then flip them over and grind the bondo back out from the inside...its pretty obvious where it is so I grind though the original glass and stop when I hit the new glass




Making them reshaped and bondo free





Then put the halves back together and smooth it out and its better than the first 1. Making the plug the right shape to begin with would have been a lot easier but....





Now I need to mount the filter so I'm making glass adapter plates the that will fit the back of the housing which I will screw to the back of the filters and attach to the housings with clip-on nuts and screws which should make pulling the filter to clean pretty easy.  Haven't quite decided how to attach the the car yet....probably just glue with a few screws for security as they shouldn't need to come out very often

I'm thinking the day of a dyno running in my shop is never actually coming so that will need to go....probably the huge vacuum pump too. Then maybe upgrade my lathe or more WBO2 sensors, new head gaskets, and the new drop gear bits without needing to involve the account in the approval process.

Looking at air duct 2, it's tight and will likely need to be 2 parts to install it.

Mostly finished the passenger side filter mounting yesterday, just needs a slight angle adjustment because the front for the filter itself is hitting the body. Also made a lot of progress on the plug for the air tube. Pics soon

Not so bad