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Toe set. I pondered what to set it to thinking more toe-in should help with the self-centering but it tends to make the steering feel slow from what I read.....so I settled on 1/4"@ 48in which I think is about 0.083"@16" and and the factory spec is 0.06"-0.10" so about nominal and just see how it drives before trying more.

I also have a plan percolating in my brain involving torsion spring on the column to to force it to center if self-centering remains an issue.....but one way or another I expect to win this battle.

Then on to pedals I made it pretty compact which really didn't leave quite enough room and I had to cut the adjusting rods on the masters leaving like no adjustment. Then last year when I wanted to drop the pedals so my feet would clear the bulky EPS I had to add spacers and not knowing exactly what I wanted I just used washes equaling about 3/16"


and that left the pedals here.....a little hard to see but the clutch is about an inch below the dead-pedal and the brake not as low but maybe 1/2" below the throttle all of which seems less than ideal.


I do want to have some adjustment available so rather than red loctite replacing the jam nut that no longer fits I added a set screw to lock the mastercylinder rod position. No spacers puts it here with everything too high



So I made 1/8" spacers to replace the 3/16" washers.


The pedal ratio is about 6:1 so that should drop everything about 5/8" and that set the clutch a little low but now I can adjust it and I set it maybe 3/16 below the dead-pedal so my foot isn't quite touching it resting on the dead-pedal which seems right.


But that meant I had to adjust the clutch switch and that meant it hit the new EPS bracket. I know I don't want the pedal any higher than it is so I drove the switch full in and cut the tab I had welded to the pedal until it no longer held the pedal down and called it good. That leaves the switch about full compressed so it will still work if I decide to drop the pedal a bit more.


Then the brakes. I didn't do the best just on the balance bar. The rear master push rod sits nice and straight but the front master push rod was a bit angled.


So I did what I do and welded almost a 1/4" of metal on


then cleaned it up in the mill and also cleaned up the main pivot, I ground the original mechanism off and it just wasn't that neat.


Then polished the bore so the balance bar bearing moves smoothly


Then paint and call it a night. Tomorrow I'll get it all reassembled, the brakes bled, then power up the ECU to I can read the brake pressures and make sure the balance bar is correct with the new 5/8 rear master replacing the 0.70". Hopefully all that will be done before the arrival of a 24lb 318 bwm flywheel that is wishing to be be WAY lighter...I think I heard ice racer? but it will require my attention.