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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2021 8:15 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
-Bolting up the heads only pulls the mains about 0.0001
-I really needed to install steel inserts for that work, as I'd pull the main bolts out with aluminum shavings on them

Speaking of which, have you time-serted your main and head bolt holes?


I think the ferrari engines are different than the northstar. Heads and mains are studs not bolt and I've never heard of main studs pulling out. Head studs get corroded and break when you try to remove them due to coolant leaking in, but again I've never hear of them pulling out on their own so I've never heard of people installing inserts other than in repairing a broken stud.

Also, the head studs are long and threaded into the main bearing webs so they don't distort the bore much but I'm told do distort the mains so the conventional wisdom is heads must be on when working with main bearing journals but I've never measured it....I guess I can now.

....don't know....


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 7:43 am 
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You say that like I am the bad guy. I have a huge cam journal reamer. When all is said and done, heads are bolted on for the last time, I tape everything up and ream the cam bores again. It is the last step.
I have in the past had to use the cam as the lapping bar. Ferrari cams are super hard and you are cutting aluminum anyway. I had all the valves out for that one. I will say, when that one was done the cams fit beautifully. I just polished the cam journals after the lapping. I have used this method on other engines to make sure I had the clearance correct for the actual parts that are mated.
Planning and careful measuring and adjusting is the key. Make it fit right and it will always be happy.
I can ship the reamer if you like or you can just move to warmer Ga. and finish it here.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 25, 2021 9:59 am 
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MerlinTech wrote:
You say that like I am the bad guy.


No, no, not the bad guy! The guy smart enough to know how to NOT blowup engines. I've never been very good with details so I very much appreciate the help.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 7:29 am 
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mk e wrote:
MerlinTech wrote:
You say that like I am the bad guy.


No, no, not the bad guy! The guy smart enough to know how to NOT blowup engines. I've never been very good with details so I very much appreciate the help.


All good, just want to see this bad a$$ thing haul the mail.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 10:21 am 
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MerlinTech wrote:

All good, just want to see this bad a$$ thing haul the mail.


I'm thinking it will at least make noise again roundabout late April...actually driving should come next....should :)

Left to do is
1) fit the main bearings
2) at least confirm cam journal size (remember I did some lapping already)...but I'll assume there is more to do
3) clay the pistons. I STILL have Wade's piston vise waiting on this set to be sure I cut enough clearance
4) There was something very not right with the timing chain, the engine only turned forward and I couldn't figure out why....I need to figure that out this time because the only thing I can think is there was a loop in the chain at the bottom sprocket I couldn't see. I have it apart and together 5 or 6 times, always the same result. I'm told ferrari added a guide to the bottom on the 412 so that is where I'm headed I think
5) Assemble and install I guess.....


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 8:45 am 
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Is there a way to bench run it even if your not on a dyno, just test stand run it? I would think that would be a huge advantage.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 9:55 am 
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MerlinTech wrote:
Is there a way to bench run it even if your not on a dyno, just test stand run it? I would think that would be a huge advantage.


There is always a way but involves building a test stand wiring harness because I didn't build the car harness in a way that would let me remove it easily....$500+ and 2 weeks work. Engine in/engine out isn't simple or quick either so the work is a wash I guess then as you surmise the savings comes when anything at all goes wrong or I want to adjust something. Pretty much every time I say "next time I'm building a run stand!".....then next time arrives and and say "I'm ready to finally drive this thing!". I was hoping this time the engine would be going together in the fall so I couldn't drive it and a run stand would let me play with it all winter, but no, its going to be done mid-spring when spring fever is at its worst....3 times a charm though right?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 1:34 pm 
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Cleaning up a little this morning before moving on to installing the liners and heads and spotted a screw in the pile. This particular screw is what I used to hold the windscreen to the fairing in my H-D roadrace bike which last lasted in ...1996? and 4 workshops ago. Not really sure how it ended up on the floor of a shop built 20 years later but I laughed at both the fact that it did and maybe more so that I knew exactly what it was but I can't usually remember the name of the guy I met yesterday much less 20 years ago :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 4:28 pm 
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mk e wrote:
Cleaning up a little this morning before moving on to installing the liners and heads and spotted a screw in the pile. This particular screw is what I used to hold the windscreen to the fairing in my H-D road race bike which last lasted in ...1996? and 4 workshops ago. Not really sure how it ended up on the floor of a shop built 20 years later but I laughed at both the fact that it did and maybe more so that I knew exactly what it was but I can't usually remember the name of the guy I met yesterday much less 20 years ago :lol:


It goes like that for me as well.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2021 8:41 pm 
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The cylinders are back in the block and heads are back on other than torquing....it takes forever to get the frikin nuts on.


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