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I hope so! You only had 7 pistons in the first shot!

You had the skirts teflon coated, but didn't get the crowns ceramic coated?

That would have cost more and that is is a problem to get approved. The skirts were coated to save the liners, so $500 saves me $2500 and more honing time and oil, but the crown coating is for hp and I'm just so over worrying about 1-2%....I want 900, but I'll call anything north of 500 a win at this point, the way at the beginning stretch goal was 600 so the 750-800 that I'm kind of expecting is way good enough.

I was pretty proud of myself, I completed the claying work in about 5 hours when I had been thinking about 10-12 so as I'm pulling the heads feel good. 1-6 head off, looks great





head 7-12 off ...WTF? the intakes are way too close and the exhaust and nearly hitting?



I probably spent about 30 minutes just staring in disbelief as all the possible causes run through my brain. Eventually I realize the only possible explanation is that way back I set up the bank 2 cams wrong...but that can be, it was running?...well, I was struggling with bank 2...Wait, I have a high speed log of MAP


Its not that smooth and it was after the engine was clearly broken so I didn't think much of it but looking now....shit! there are only 6 cylinders showing!


No frikin wonder it wasn't running very well. Looking at the cams (I couldn't get a good pic), when I line up the timing marks, cylinder 7 should be 30 degrees clockwise from cyl 1.....nope, probably miss marked by 30 crank degrees, 15 cam degrees. No wonder that bank was giving me all kinds of trouble.

So, I'm going to call the clay a pass and not repeat it based on bank 1 but I need to re-time and remark the cams and as a bonus I have a new root cause for the engine failure.

How did you set the cam timing the first time? How did it get so far off?
I like to use intake opening @.50mm and exhaust closing @.50mm.
I am glad you have figured out the why. That is comforting.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I have no frikin idea.....I thought I'd done the .050 timing but my eyes and the clay say whatever I did, it was wrong. I probably did the math wrong and I'm going to find they are exactly 30 degree out or some stupid thing like that.

Nice data!

Always good to have a root cause. I guess if you had a loose seat and p2v contact, the two together would definitely explain what happened.

Do you need to borrow a degree wheel?

Now that you have a root cause, you can protect against that problem in order to allow something else to bite you

More like borrow a clue

I bet it will run way better with the cams in the right places

I haven't used a degree wheel on mine yet, but my engine has timing marks, as well as dingers & dongers--projections on the cams that interact with features on the cylinder head to ensure the assembler doesn't put a cam in the wrong location.

And yes! Totally it will run better when it's hitting on all 12!

With the clay test "passed" I preped for head install. The new o-rings for the oil tubes came....I have an extra 98 or each if anyone else needs some


Then all the stuff in the V that can't be done with the heads on gets done and in my waste I nearly installed the coolant temp sensor
]

before realizing that it's not supposed to be black


And all is now well. Heads tomorrow.

Same sensor, you just shined it up? What sensor is it? 2 wire? Your ECU is driving your gauges, right?
I ask because there's a 3 wire sensor that has both the 2 wire sensor for the ECU and an additional pin with resistance to ground. I'm running that so the original gauge works the same as it always has, but it reading the same point in the system as the ECU.



The closest unit is the oil pressure switch/sender? Is it a gauge sender? What unit is it?