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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2020 10:29 pm 
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I have a LOT of wires at this point :shock:

32 AN in - 20 AN in +12 CAN AN in, 2 available
22 LS (12 for injectors, 10 other), 0 available
5 Temp In (but 2 I'm just using as 5V pullup for my external throttle driver father than put resistors in the wire harness), 1 available
6 coil (there are 6 after a board rewire to activate 2 of them left from older board rev, but FW only supports 10 total currently....begging for them to fix that)
6 digital in, 2 available ( 2 are unconnected but slated for brake and clutch pedal...needed if I want to try launch control)
1 VR in pair, 3 available
1HS, 2 available

So I have o LS, 1 HS and the DBW output left. The DBW I messed with tonight and couldn't quite get them doing what I want but I have a couple more ideas to try....hoping to get 2 usable outputs there. If I believe the 2 additional coils in FW are never coming I could take the 4 unused coil outs bur they are very low power HS on/off outputs so not very useful.

Tonight I connected the water temp gauge to the ECU and almost the low oil pressure light....but I ran out of heat shrink tubing to cover the splice (I had to cut the wire back as the OEM insulation was swelled and no longer fits in the ECU connector). I added some code to make the "slow down" light basically a check engine light that currently comes on with low oil pres, low fuel pre, high water temp....I'll add misfire and such later.

1 of the unused HS outs is for exhaust valves. I have 4 mufflers, 2 quiet (ish) and 2 loud. There are valves on the loud muffler and I have a solenoid valve that will open /close them. The quieter muffler should be good for 250-300hp which will handle all normal driving, then above that the gates of H_ll will open. Right now they are safety wired open, but I need to hook them up properly.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 4:31 am 
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50°C is not a lot close the exhaust. Where will the solenoid go for not overheating?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 10:38 am 
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Mehl wrote:
50°C is not a lot close the exhaust. Where will the solenoid go for not overheating?


yes, that is a concern. The valve is likely going in the trunk which could easily exceed that temp....but the whole thing is metal so I thing the temp limit is just the what looks like acrylic wire cover and I'm guessing that is setting the temp limit. At least that is how my wishful thinking works :D


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 11:42 am 
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Perhaps use a bowden cable and put magent to some not so hot place?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 11:51 am 
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Mehl wrote:
Perhaps use a bowden cable and put magent to some not so hot place?


Where though? The exhaust valves run on vacuum so wherever the the solenoid valve goes the vacuum lines must follow and I hate the idea of running vacuum line more than a few feet...that leaves engine bay or trunk. The valve is sealed so I could probably tuck it up over and behind the one of the wheel wells without any new concerns but I'm not sure that's any cooler....maybe. I also have a small GM vacuum canister, like 6" dia sphere to find a home for...nothing is ever easy with this project.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 6:07 pm 
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I keep finding I don't have the bits I need to finish stuff. 

-oil pressure warning light is waiting on heat shrink

-front wheel speed sensors waiting on 1/8" wire cover, heat shrink and I just discovered 1k resistors (sensor needs an external resistor and I now remember using my last when I switched the crank/cam position from VR to hall, the same hall I'm using for wheels so I used my resistors....I'll have 100 and the other bits tomorrow says amazon

-brake and clutch switches....I need a clutch switch.  I think I found something that will work, but a week to come.

Hopefully this weekend most of the little annoying  wiring will be done.  I've made some adjustments to the ECU code and the water temp gauge now driven by the ecu, the oil light will be once I can heat shrink it and plug it in, the "slow down" light is check engine and light for low oil pres, low fuel pres, high water temp....I'll add more later like misfire, TBs out of sync and such.

I've decided its good the DBW outputs didn't work the way I wanted...that means I still have them for when I build variable rpm tuned air box, kind of like the porsche varioram that changes tuning with rpm.  I think the DBW output will be perfect for that.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 8:50 pm 
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Tried to wire up the brake pedal switch....weird, no power ....oh...looks like I never completely finished the fuse box upgrade to the point of there being fuses..one more thing. They will be here Sunday.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 9:07 pm 
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Is that one of the community vendor fuseboxes?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 9:17 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Is that one of the community vendor fuseboxes?

No, that would be way too easy. Summit racing I think, each 5 is separate but slot together, had to replace all the connectors though vs the plug and play option :?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 8:30 am 
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The fuse box pic reminded me that is where the whole stupid project stared and why the car rolled into the shop in the first place...yup, the whole V12 epic began with with wiring. I'm not sure if birdman had yet release his plug&play 308 fuse box upgrade but I was having constant power issues as well as ECU problems on the supercharged setup. The fuses were corroding as many have an issue with and the ECU I got a great deal on because they had been recalled over a crank sensor option I didn't need not working right...1/2 price knowing for sure that would never work. It turned out that as the ECU got warm in the trunk the working crank trigger didn't work right either and timing would jump advanced enough so it would detonate at idle.

I bought a motec M800 and decided to mount it in the the cabin....that is the M800 bracket I made that the fuses are bolted too. it was going to slip up under the dash and I decided to just replace the fuse box with modern stuff along with adding extras for the ECU....then the stock relay panel was right there and it would be a super net install.

I don't recall exactly when it all went off the rails......but the project is ending where it began with me cleaning up the fuse box. Honestly it looks like its mostly done and ready for fuses. I'm also remembering the fuse numbers match original and I did leave so tape with numbers so I know how I numbered it....when the fuses come tomorrow I should be able to just plug them in....and see what systems don't work after sitting all these years.

Edit: this post reminded me I'm on my 5th ECU.  Haltech E6k, Haltech E11v1, Motec M800, Motec M150, Enginelab EL129 (AEM infinity7), 6 if I count the o5e open source project that was about concurrent with the M150 time


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