gemellocattivo.com

yes, same sensor that I nearly installed corroded and ugly

Yes, 2 wire GM coolant temp sensor

Yes, the ECU is now driving most of the gauges, including the coolant temp. The 308 gauges do not use normally sending units and have a reputaiton for being pretty inaccurate so now I use modern sensors to get accurate reading to the ECU and a calibration table in the ECU to get the gauge to match the ECU reading



Pressure transducer that I am using to read oil pressure....accurately. Like the coolant Temp, it feeds the ECU and I use a calibration table in the ECU to send a signal to the gauge to make the gauge read a correct value. Here I didn't have much choice as the OEM type replacement sending units are NLA.

What is your oil pressure sender? Is it GM compatible or its own thing?

generic 150psi transducer, $25 from amazon

Opened the new head gaskets


And the heads are on, hopefully for good.

I went out to the shop to start prepping the trans....and spent an hour looking at cams.

The best I can tell I timing the back to intake to to match bank 1....when I line up the timing marks, the lobes for cyl 7 are exactly matching the lobes for cyl 1, so its advanced by 60 crank degrees from where it belongs

Cyl 1



cyl 7



The exhaust was out a little less, but retarded not advanced so it about matched the timing on #4 I think it was, because why not right?  


The timing checking was made a bit easier by a knock on the front of the cams that the cam grinder used to time the 1st lobe...so I could use that and angle blocks to figure out what was where



I put some temporary marks on so they will be close when I drop them in.


The timing checking was made a bit easier by a knock on the front of the cams that the cam grinder used to time the 1st lobe...so I could use that and angle blocks to figure out what was where.

This afternoon I saw a show..you know that one where the couple had separated but run into eachother, end up spending the night together, then decide to move back in together and find out their old place is still available?

I couple more pics from yesterday.




This puddle of coolant leaking from the trans disturbed me


But it turner out it has gotten behind the motor mount, probably when i drained the block to pull it so no worries

I'll share this before I start so you guys have time to stop me if you see something wrong

Time from the engine software. I
m using the marked row, true timing at .050 lift at the valve which accounts for lash, the line above is at the cam and would be how ferrari says to set timing by first setting the valve to 0 lash. The lobe are a symmetric grind, which means the lobe center, which is what I'm really setting is exactly in the middle so if I set opening and closing is off, I just split the difference and the lobe center will be correct.


Degree wheel on and marked, blue is intake, red exhaust. My marks don't fall in the printed windows because I have the wheel on the flywheel not the damper so its backwards. This wheel is almost exactly the OD of my trigger pattern on the flywheel which I use for the ECU but also for reading timing so setting it up is as simple as stick it on with the 0 aligned with the TDC mark on the flywheel.



Last time I bolted it to the crank, I guess the flywheel wasn't finished? don't recall, anyway I I did bank 1 then calculated where bank 2 stuff should be and clearly buggered that math beyond belief, but this time its going to be different!....I'm just going to move the damn degree wheel and use the exact same marks. The trigger pattern is 36-1 so there is a tooth exactly every 10 degrees and the way I built is #1 TDC is exactly the center of a tooth marking #7 TCD exactly the center of the 6th tooth....no more dumbass mistakes...I hope....

Verified TDC with an indicator on the piston?
Verified valve events with indicator(s) on lifter(s)?

32 degrees of overlap doesn't seem like much, but I guess your engine model is leading you in that direction. If you have a high energy density in your exhaust stream, then it must not take much time to transfer that to the intake.

Once the timing chain is on, I will confirm the wheel is installed correctly, then check the cams.

On overlap...I don't have a ton of duration, 241/247 @.050 you can see it at the bottom of the cam info shot. Up[ higher on the screen shot you can see it say 67.2 degrees overlap, which is at .006". The program and SAE spec do everything at .006 before that is where they say flow effectively starts/stops. I have pretty high flowing heads so what's flowing becomes significant quickly as the valve open to the point that changing the lash setting even .002" changes the output from the software. My intake cam has relatively long accel/decel ramps which the software HATED, so I set the lash pretty loose to help. Year ago I saw a maserati with .013" intake lash and thought it odd....but no doubt they were trying to reduce the seat to seat numbers a bit just as I found myself doing.

Cams in and at least look correct