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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 12:56 pm 
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mk e wrote:
MerlinTech wrote:
I will have to refresh my memory and check the timing again. I ran the distributor on my machine and knew what advance I had available, from there I set the idle timing. It liked it a lot, really nice idle and great off idle response. Old school can work sometimes.


With a bit of care a distributor can be setup to work very well for sure... carbs as well. Simple, reliable, inexpensive....that combination is hard to beat. All I was saying is that at idle its nice to add timing as vacuum drops (throttle opening) to take you from say 10-15 degrees where it cranks and idles nice to the say 20 where it makes peak power at idle rpm father than wait for the mechanical advance to add the timing a few hundred rpm later. That is literally the only thing I think an electronic system can do that a standard distributor can't...but go a little high on cranking/idle timing and it can be pretty hard to tell the difference...certainly not an "Oh my God, how did I live without this!" item and do notice when I was screwing around with my engine I'd gone to a fixed idle timing just like a distributor would have because sometimes simpler is better. I am in no way saying they are bad.


Totally agree, the infinite adjustability of electronic ign. is intoxicating.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 5:30 pm 
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mk e wrote:
Did some very important work on the block tonight. Last time I did a really poor job cleaning up the cast surface on the side of the block so I spent a few hours making it a bit nicer, not perfect but acceptable.

I also need to clean up where the liners sit and get the new liners finished and in the block along with the main bearings so its ready to go the shop.


Don't forget Cerakote MC-5100 to keep it looking like that!


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2020 6:00 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:

Don't forget Cerakote MC-5100 to keep it looking like that!


Not on my budget.....I'll just pull it every few months and clean it :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 7:41 am 
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Wade finished the valves and they are on their way back. He noticed they were way more worn that the hours suggested they should be and not all worn even. That has got to be from me lapping them...remember back I made a plate to seal the chambers so I could leak test all the valves then I lapped until there was were no leaks. A quick hit with lapping compound to see they are touching and knock off any tool marks that might leak I guess is just fine, actually grinding the seats true with lapping compound is maybe not ideal.

I just replaced a few guides that were not straight and no doubt causing the valve to sit angled on the seat so hopefully everything will be right this time. He suggested touching the seats with a stone just to be sure which isn't a bad idea...if any are still off that will fix them but also change the width of the seat....but maybe cross that bridge when/if I get to it. Not sure.... my focus will be getting the block out to the shop then I'll have a few weeks to sort the heads.

Today however I'll be planting 14 boxwoods and moving a couple yards of good dirt I ordered from the driveway to make a planting bed in front of the wall next to the new patio space that I just restuccoed last weekend and dug out a couple yards of fill/gravel over the past few days as it requires a pick to dig through ....it will be so pretty once the plants are in...yes Dear, then I'm done and onto the car right? :)


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2020 6:23 pm 
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MerlinTech wrote:
Oh come on, we live for the pictures.


And here it is....just over 10 solid hours today. Once they are established I'll get the boxwoods trimmed and they should fill in nice in the next couple years. Up top ...probably ground cover...thinking about a strawberry garden. But I'm quite certain this is the end of yard and really all non-ferrari work for at least a few months. :P


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 8:21 am 
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With the yard its finally time to OPEN the bow of sleeves from Darton and see if I can get them in the block. Right now they should look like this
Attachment:
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And I need them to look like this...the standard tools they use couldn't make the little undercut on the top flange. They would have needed it to be a .125" wide undercut which probably would have been ok but that is literally 1/2 the contact width gone so I decided to have them leave metal and cut that myself along with a similar issue at the o-ring seat....today we find out if that was a wise choice.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 10:06 am 
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They look nice


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 3:13 pm 
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mk e wrote:
With the yard its finally time to OPEN the bow of sleeves from Darton and see if I can get them in the block. Right now they should look like this
Attachment:
cylinder rough.JPG


And I need them to look like this...the standard tools they use couldn't make the little undercut on the top flange. They would have needed it to be a .125" wide undercut which probably would have been ok but that is literally 1/2 the contact width gone so I decided to have them leave metal and cut that myself along with a similar issue at the o-ring seat....today we find out if that was a wise choice.



Sooo....

It looks like you need to bring the 2.382 down to 2.377 (0.005 delta), yet also bring 2.382-2.135 down to 0.237 (0.010 delta)

So you need to face the deck surface down 0.005, then face the contact surface (undercut) 0.005 as well

Where are you going to put the Darton Sleeves stickers? Under the decklid? Going to put Lincoln or Miller stickers there as well?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 4:40 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:


Sooo....

It looks like you need to bring the 2.382 down to 2.377 (0.005 delta), yet also bring 2.382-2.135 down to 0.237 (0.010 delta)

So you need to face the deck surface down 0.005, then face the contact surface (undercut) 0.005 as well

Where are you going to put the Darton Sleeves stickers? Under the decklid? Going to put Lincoln or Miller stickers there as well?


Yes, the plan was 5 from both sides to be certain they are parallel. It worked out to about 3 off the top and 6 off the bottom on most.

So plug in the bottom so I can chuck it tight without damage
true it at the chuck then tap the outer dia in, repeat until nothing changes end to end
cut the top face
Cut a little relief groove so there is no radius on the back then set the flange thickness
Add a little chamfer I forgot on the drawing

The flanges all came out within .0003" and are ready to install.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 5:20 pm 
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mk e wrote:
So plug in the bottom so I can chuck it tight without damage


Just break out your six jaw chuck


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