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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 6:20 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:

Just break out your six jaw chuck


Man!....if only they weren't finished and in the block already! ;)

Starting to look like it could be an engine again someday


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2020 9:28 pm 
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Liners are in the block. Main bearings are in and torqued for measuring. Rod bearing are in and torqued for measuring.  Crank is clean.  I think I'm ready for a trip to the machine shop.

I just need to decide what to tell them for rod and main clearance so they know what size to finish the crank...I'll think about that in the morning when I'm less tired I guess. Should be ready to pick up early next month.....could be driving by Christmas if I don't find any other major issues.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 7:20 am 
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mk e wrote:
I just need to decide what to tell them for rod and main clearance so they know what size to finish the crank...I'll think about that in the morning when I'm less tired I guess.


Good that I waited until morning because I'm more than confused at the moment. Looking at the 400, 308 and QV manuals the nominal main clearance is .0018 and nominal rod is .00266.....those numbers SEEM backwards. The 328 section is asking for tighter on the mains.. the bearing people say 3/4-1 per inch is typical making those numbers exactly backwards.

Those are the nominal numbers the range is
Rod .00181-.00350
Main .00114-.00252

There is overlap and I could just use the normal numbers which would put the rods right at the bottom of the factory spec....and my rods are 360 so not sure what the factory spec is for them, I found a 355 manual but it doesn't specifically give a clearance spec that I can find....the numbers on the journal, rod, bearing are all very close to 308 ...rod bore is exact, bearing a touch thinner, crank a touch larger so it adds to about the same numbers. Mains are the tighter 328 spec of .00126

I'm ASSUMING they have found the block is rigid so mains can be run tight but rods flex and need the clearance....not sure. Its raining today so I'll load up and head to the shop tomorrow giving me another day to think.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 4:53 pm 
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so even when things seem done on this....they aren't. The center 5 head studs on each side are original in their original location, the rest are relocated custom studs. the TR heads are not quite as tall as 400 heads so I knew the original studs were on the long side.....and it turned out a couple not quite ok.
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So as long as it was still on the bench......
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 5:24 pm 
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Cutoff wheel next to open bores during assembly?
Bold strategy, Cotton.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 5:34 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Cutoff wheel next to open bores during assembly?
Bold strategy, Cotton.


no, NO, NO

Its getting ready to go out to have the cylinders hones so I figured best take care of the studs now as it will get a thorough cleaning on its return.

I guess the bold strategy is honing without torque plates...... :?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 5:45 pm 
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Did you epoxy the studs in? Why not take them out to do that?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 5:54 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Did you epoxy the studs in? Why not take them out to do that?


Then how would I hold the cylinders in?....I have seen them loctited in but not this specific design where the head compresses the oring....that's why spacers with nuts
which reminded me 10 studs were too long.

Assembly will be about a month from now with luck


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 8:32 pm 
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back to heads...started cutting the exhaust seat IDs


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:36 am 
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Block and crank at the shop.

I told them:
clearance rods and mains .0021
Pistons .003

3-4 weeks


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