Lowell_Brown wrote:
I gave up on my 308 windows because many people have posted on FerrariChat that
the only thing to do is to take everything apart, clean, and grease. And they mean really everything including taking the motor off. This would be easy for me except, and this is a really big except, putting the cables back in the proper order. They also say to snake in a heavy ground wire through with the other wires that go to the door. I think that you should hold your nose and go to the 308/328 section of FerrariChat and enter slow windows in the search box. If I want fast windows, I use my 330GT which has really fast windows.
It could be that you have done all this and I missed a lot of what you have done in going perhaps too fast through your posting.
But if the windows worked when the car was new, they should work now if everything is cleaned etc --- including the electrical contacts. And if you snake in a ground wire, they should work better than new. But I have done none of this myself so what I have written should be taken with a lot of salt,
I've looked and a lot of people do a lot of things for sure. I think Wade has it exactly right for how to fix it.....I started with the maintenance because my time is free and maintenance is never wrong....the driver side for sure had a grease problem (the window would not move at all) the passenger side did not, it seemed fine but I'm pretty sure the passenger motor was replaced...it was not identical to the drivers side and the right rear fender and it looks like door skin were changed and I assume that is when the window motor was replaced.
The factory wiring has issues.....its a long path with a bunch of connectors and contacts which leads to a lot or opportunity for problems and a lot of "fixes" that I have no doubt improve things but aren't necessarily getting to the problem.....which is there is too much wire and too many connections and contacts but its mostly the connections and contacts that change with time. On my car for sure the connector under the dash at the passenger door is corroded and should be replaced....there is a rust induced leak at the base of the windshield frame, some rust and a corroded connector under it. Beyond that all the connections along the way are dark, not the bright silver they started life as so for sure there is increased contact resistance....I'm sure the switch is the same way. The moldings in the window frame are worn and hard. It just all adds up.
My adding or relays is probably not quite as good as the Wade is doing it power to the window wise as I'm using the switched 12v which adds wire and a another relay but its much better than the factory setup. I should replace the door connector.....but the window works 3/4 decent now....I guess my interest in getting it working better depends on how much longer until the block is back in my hands and I can move on to important stuff
Login
Register
FAQ
Members
