gemellocattivo.com

He will say .003-.005 off the deck I believe. The crush is critical for sure. I am glad he is helping. He really understands these wet sleeve situations. The last one I did was completely sealed. His head gasket did exactly as he said it would. I think you are on the best path now.

As a comparison, I have had engines that have had the heads off 3 times before trying to get the gasket that Ferrari used originally to work. They were not great in rebuild situations sometimes. Lesson learned for me.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Hopefully he can work some magic so I can leave everything as-is. Certainly I can deck the block but I honestly hat the idea or taking off more metal, but that is free and new liners with the thicker flange would be $2500 or so

Hopefully an easier solution will be found.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

While i wait on gasket guy its back to brakes. I ordered a 3rd proportioning valve, and a couple Tees and 2000 psi transducers. The plan is get the master cylinders swapted this weekend and by the following to rest of the bits will be here.

Started in on the brakes. All the bits aren't here but I did swap out the master cylinders which took longer than I hoped. Way back I changed my mind on where I wanted the pedals height set after I'd already built the pedal box and ended up shortening the pusher rods on the masters, so those also had to be swapped. My clutch pedal has an adjustable pedal stop and going from a 0.7" to a 0.75" master I need to reduce the allowed travel by 15% or risk damaging the clutch

Then I had had machined the clutch pedal to accept a standard brake light switch to add clutch position to the ECU for stuff like launch control or maybe push button start...but the stupid switch didn't want to thread in properly because the molded threat were oversize but eventually I got it.

Still waiting the 3rd proportioning valve, the pressure sensors and tees plus I'd forgotten that I used the original rear brake line for the clutch and then used US sized stuff for the new rear line US stuff on the rear line so I need to order the correct Tee for that.

I also started playing with reading the sensors. The ECU always reads all the inputs so all I need to do is connect is to see it, but seeing it as 0-2000psi instead of 0-4.5V means converging in the ECU or as a virtual channel in the tuner. I set it up in the ECU which is dead simple, Channel list>Add Channel>analog conditioner

Then name it, select an input channel, tell it what the sensor should read and what the sensor voltage output is. That's it, now the ECU has a special channel for front brake pres that can be viewed in the tuner or added to a data log.


I decided to created it in the ECU because I think I will also add an brake malfunction light then lights if the rear pressure is not correct compared to the front pressure. With the balance bar and all the proportioning valves it seems like to would be easy for something to be wrong or a master cylinder failure, anything that causes the f/r bias to be out off from where I set it. The relationship is a curve so channel list>Add Channel>1D table and plug in the info from the spread sheet I made. Last winter or the winter before I thought it was a good ideas to use the "slow down" light as a malfunction indicators and the Brake warning light as a shift light since its on the tach and easy to see, but now that I'll have a brake warning maybe I'll blink it for a brake issue. Need to think about that.

All good stuff. I like it. You make this look easy.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

While you're doing all the work on the head gaskets, you could have your cam covers and plenum cover sprayed with clear Cerakote (or do it yourself for that matter) in order to preserve the look. Even if you never drive it in the rain, atmospheric humidity will dull the finish over a period of years.

Could you not add some filler material to the flange on the underside of the lip and turn it down? That would leave you the factory top of the flanges to mate with the head.

Now that all my brake parts are here, gasket guy pointed at the factory liner height specs and said I should fix it so the rest of the engine needs to come apart. Then the question is do I trust a local shop to follow my directions or do I deck so I've no one to blame but myself? I've found that when instructions are odd, mistakes tend to follow but my machine is really not big enough which also leads to problems....

Well, is it an even cut or do corrections need to be made? I am thinking the liners and studs come out and then it is just a pass or two to skim off what you don't need. Hard to get a standard shop to do custom work.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver