TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
You're going to put that thing on an actual dyno? Does the oil pan seal with the bellhousing off? Are you going to make an oil pan just for dyno testing?
Where have you been man! I now OWN an actual dyno!
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=332Its a bell housing mounted water brake...and yes the plan is at least run it a bit before it goes back in the car. This setup lets the trans be installed, I just leave off the bellhousing/drop gear case and bolt on the brake, it plugs into the clutch...once I make that shaft of course. I just need a simple support stand to hold the engine...hell I could probably use the engine stand but the plan is a small frame that sits/bolts to the welding table.
The brake is ONLY 800hp....which if I'm being honest might be enough but I'm pretty sure that with a little work on the water supply setup its a 1000hp brake. The single rotor is 500+hp, this unit is 2 of the exact same rotors and the front and back are the same, the center is the same geometry.....and uses the exact same water valve and water feed port which can't possibly be big enough to fee 2 rotors but back in the day the 2nd rotor was about adding low rpm braking to hold BB torque as the rpm they ram at not wringing out every last hp up top. I think open up the water feed, bigger valve, 1000hp.
The ECU already read all the engine stuff, so if I add a pressure sensor to the brake and feed that to the ECU I have all the engine data in 1 nice log, I can make a hp/torque screen for the pc. I can also probably use the ECU to do auto dyno pulls, controlled accel rate, constant MAP or whatever....I bought a stepper motor to try on the new valve and if that works I can program whatever I want.
That's the plan anyway.
Login
Register
FAQ
Members
