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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2020 9:02 pm 
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Brian A wrote:
Wow! Congrats!

I know right?

On the busy work list I've been thinking the NBO2 sensors were not working and I should make a change. Currently I have 18 O2 bungs. 12 in each cylinder, 4 in the 1st collectors, 2 in the 2nd (bank) collectors. Sensors wise I have 4 NB O2 in the 1st collectors and 2 WO2 in the banks. I was thinking the ECU was just not reading the NB sensors correctly...all the analog inputs have a 5V pullup which can be very helpful but isn't current for a NBO2 sensor so when I got what looked like gibberish result I wasn't surprised. That got me to thinking a better setup would be 4 WB sensors and I've been pondering how to explain that to Lana as it will cost money.

This evening I spent some time digging through log data...the NB sensor are working just not the way I expected. I was displaying a lambda based on a simple lookup table created from the bosch data sheet...but it looks like the pullup is buggering it so the table was all wrong. its supposed to be 1.0 lambda at about 0.5V, rich above, lean below with a big dead zone from like 0.3-0.7. that's what I planned for but not what I have....it looks like I'm reading 0.5-1.5V with 1.0 lambda at about 1.0V, lean below, rich above so backwards and offset 0.5V

This shows i had a problem in the 10-12 group with 1 dropping out intermittently

11=1-3

12=4-6

15=7-9

17=10-12
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log review.JPG
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here is where its clear something has gone wrong in the 7-9 group with that NB not in anyway matching the others...which I now Know was a dead #8


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2020 7:24 pm 
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So I spent time today looking over ECU stuff on the PC and remembered I was planning to change the oil pressure sensor to send reads to the ecu then let the ecu run the dash gauge. I did a little hunting for a suitable pressure transducer....was getting ready to add it to the card when I noticed a not, "you last bought this item June 2017....hmmm....that's when I was running the engine and seeing low oil pressure which I ASSUMED meant the sending unit had failed because new engines don't have low oil pressure...yeah, the sending unit is probably just fine but I found the new sensor in the shop along with a package of adapters to make it fit the engine. It also looks like I added to the ecu code, found a mistake but still its mostly ready to go. Nice!, go me!

Also found a spare WB sensor giving me 3 (but only 2 controllers). I think the OEM oil pressure units are NLA.....that might buy me a WB controller or 2.....probably time to make the change to 4 WB sensors.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2020 7:58 pm 
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Are you using the stock Veglia gauge in the instrument cluster? Apparently they have a weird non- linear voltage response to compensate for the weird non-linear stock sender.

People have made adapter circuit boards to use the stock gauge with a modern piezoelectric sender. Here is a link to a thread:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threa ... it.485238/


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2020 8:47 pm 
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Thanks. Yes, it is a stock gauge and having the cal info from the thread means I don't have to duplicate the work, just type it into the ECU and be done.....well, I'm not sure exactly what signal they are outputting from their setup so I may need to play a little. The OEM setup is analog and they might have duplicated that, my plan is to use a digital output to simulate the analog, but the gauge shouldn't be able to tell the difference but if it acts weird I can smooth out the digital signal as needed.

Now I'll just go ahead and admit I picked the wrong sensor....150psi not 200...but I can't really see needing to actually measure to 200psi. The sensor is safe to 300 I think but out of range of 150.....that's what you get for $25 :)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2020 9:14 pm 
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Just remembered I have 2 oem sensors....an 18mm from the 308 and a 12mm from the 400

More ECU looking....part of the plan with sending oil pressure to the ECU is to light the slow down light (I plan to use it as a general check engine light) but also to literally slow down and trigger a 2500 redline or so and only allow very light load when oil pressure is low, this is an electronic throttle setup so can add some code to limit the throttle...another thing on my to-do list.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2020 9:27 pm 
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More ECU looking....part of the plan with sending oil pressure to the ECU is to light the slow down light (I plan to use it as a general check engine light) but also to literally slow down and trigger a 2500 redline or so and only allow very light load when oil pressure is low, this is an electronic throttle setup so can add some code to limit the throttle...another thing on my to-do list.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2020 4:20 am 
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mk e wrote:
They say 2 heads are better than 1...so 2 it is
Attachment:
20201101_165657-resized-1024.jpg

I had to steal a couple shims from the 1st head to finish the second as most of the stuff I offered to top up the kit didn't arrive, I'll replace and double check when they do arrive.
Attachment:
20201101_165042-resized-1024.jpg

So now it will be busy work until the black and crank come home.  There are some little scratches on the cams, I'll polish those up a bit.  The headers could stand some clean up...wires laying under the dash.....I'm sure there's more.


Once upon a time I needed, for my 1958 MKI Jaguar Saloon, a valve shim 0.001" thiner than the thinnest that is produced. So I placed 1000 (I think that was the grade) wet/dry sand paper on a mirror and spent an hour or two sanding the thinnest shim. I got it 0.001" thinner and it was flat: 0.001" thinner where ever I measured. Mirror surfaces are very flat because otherwise they would distort their reflection. Some one along the chain of command replaced the 2.4 L engine in my little Saloon with an 3.8 L E-type engine. It is fun to accelerate, but I will never try to find out how fast it will go.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2020 5:37 pm 
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Yeah, I would lap a shim if it was preventing me from getting done but I can wait a few days.

Several calls with the machine shop today and while the rods are all matching sizes , the block main bores...well....they aren't really al the same size so a line bore is probably in order.  It was line bored before the last assembly so this is confusing particularly since he said they all seem mostly round just different sizes. anyway, this shop can't do it, which honestly surprised me, but he's got a guy he's calling.  That means more money.....sensors discussion is probably off the table for now and i have a bit more time for shims to arrive before I start lapping some :)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2020 2:47 pm 
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I spoke to the shop again today and wave them numbers on the crank so they can get that done along with honing the cylinders.  Not sure when it will be done but its rolling again.  the linebore thing is still open a bit....if that goes I need the heads on so the plan is pick it up so I'll talk to them at that time and decide what I want to do.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 2:41 pm 
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For some reason this has been in my head for a couple hours now........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OD3F7J2PeYU


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