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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2020 10:31 am 
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While I wait as I said I've been looking at ECU stuff. The ECU I have (enginelab.net EL129) lets you set it up to do literally anything you please. One thing I pleased, as I've said before,  was screen that shows me the MAP (manifold pressure) for each cylinder so when its time to sync the TBs I just pull up this screen and turn the screws until they are all reading 0 error, way easier than screwing around all day with an airflow gauge. I also use the data to let the ECU automatically adjust each cylinder's fuel mixture to compensate of TB sync errors so sync'd or not the engine runs pretty much the same which was one or my biggest concerns with 12 TBs. Pretty proud of that, so Yay me.

This is possible because, also as I've said befoe,  I have I have a separate MAP sensor for each cylinder. Way back I had a custom board made with 12 sensors (its designed to do 2-12, you can literally just saw the board to the number you want) then it sends the strongest signal (the active cylinder) to the ECU. It really works good, better than I even hoped and is something I'd suggest for anyone with an ITB setup, way better than connecting to a mini plenum or reading 1 cylinder or whatever....basically solves all the concerns with ITB for like $150 in parts (for a 12 cyl about 100 in parts for 8)

The ECU only has just so many input pins to connect to and MAP is pretty critical so sending it in directly as 1 signal is reliable and simple....but that limits me on the cylinder data. What I'm working on now is entering the 21 century and using the CAN buss. I have a 12 channel analog input box that should connect to the ECU over CAN so my plan is to still send the main signal directly to the ECU as I currently do but to also send the 12 individual readings to the ECU via CAN and get the cylinder fuel trim working at all rpm and throttle positions.

Now understand the only thing I know about CAN is the word CAN which is mostly why the expander box has been sitting on the shelf for 5 years....but I'm going to try. Originally I bought it thinking I'd use it for cylinder O2 readings which is a more direct way to do everything I've been talking about but it really makes the engine look messy and each sensor has a heater that draws 2 amps....hadn't really thought about it but that alone would eat 25% of what the alternator puts out. The big fuel pump pops 15A fuses, so its 20A, each injector 1A, so 12, each coil about 3-4A average so 30-40 there, fan is 20A I think.....and you see how driving at night becomes and issue. So no 12 O2 sensors seemed a good place to save power while making a much neater engine bay but reading the 12 MAP sensor seems a good enough substitute.

Off to do really boring work....


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2020 12:41 pm 
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You don't need O2 sensor heaters... they're used to get the sensors up to temp more quickly to get emissions-certified engines into closed-loop more quickly. You don't need to run them for the sensors to work right. Also, can't you power the heater off a relay and have the ECU only energize the relay on a cold start?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2020 1:14 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
You don't need O2 sensor heaters... they're used to get the sensors up to temp more quickly to get emissions-certified engines into closed-loop more quickly. You don't need to run them for the sensors to work right. Also, can't you power the heater off a relay and have the ECU only energize the relay on a cold start?


The sensor outputs are temp dependant I guess so normally they are heater to keep temp stable and therefore output stable....but sure, NB sensors can be run without heat and 14.7 output range doesn't change that much and something near the center would probably be close enough. That still doesn't solve the ugly part :o

It's been a while...not sure where to start exactly


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2020 3:54 pm 
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Looking at the wires was hurting my head....so I moved to something I understood and replaced the fuel pump. Way back in like June 2017 I realized there was a fuel pressure problem and ordered a new pump then realized there was also a whole engine problem and parked. new pump installed, pressure problem should be sorted. Instructions say it should be on a 30A circuit, no wonder it was popping 15A fusess :oops:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 8:03 pm 
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Tonight I realized 2 things can be true at the same time, I had low oil pressure and the sensor was dead. but now the dash gauge it displaying EXACTLY what the ECU tells it to.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 7:43 am 
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Two pages of stuff to catch up on. I have been looking but saw no new post. (I was not logged in, new computer and all.) I am here now.
Lots of progress. Let me know what you want to do about lapping the mains. I can ship the tool if you need it.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 7:48 am 
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MerlinTech wrote:
Two pages of stuff to catch up on. I have been looking but saw no new post. (I was not logged in, new computer and all.) I am here now.
Lots of progress. Let me know what you want to do about lapping the mains. I can ship the tool if you need it.


Yes please!

I don't have the block back yet so working on more boring but needed to-do items. Yay oil pressure gauge!

Maybe look at the fuel gauge today as that probably needs me to order a sending unit and I'd like it fixed while the tank is easy to get to.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 12:19 pm 
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Brian A wrote:
Are you using the stock Veglia gauge in the instrument cluster? Apparently they have a weird non- linear voltage response to compensate for the weird non-linear stock sender.


Yup. I tried a 2 point cal and it was awful, 5 points are required...4 might be ok are its pretty linear 42-. You can see the values I use

psi pwm
0 =25%
42 =37%
85 =49%
128 =63%
170 =100%

Really simple to setup.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 6:29 pm 
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Looked at the fuel gauge...another bad sending unit. Best I can tell its the exact same gauge as the oil pressure with a different printed face...same 8V signal line, 0-300ohm sender......I'm a little temped to install a common sending unit in the tank and let the ECU run the gauge...hmmmmm


Edit: Fuel gauge is fixed. Opened the sending unit and the wipers are copper and had a bit if oxide, and both ground through just a dot of a contact point to the metal cover...a little 600 grit to polish everything up and it's good as new. Took under 20 minutes including drilling the rivers and finding screws with nylock nuts to replace them. Thought I snapped pic but it turns out no, sorry


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 10:33 pm 
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Tonight was the big night, I connected the CAN expander, fired it up....yeah, nothing. Email out begging for help.


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