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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 10:53 am 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:

The seat and guide not being concentric would cause this, yes?


Could but wouldn't cause the valve to bind and hit a piston...I don't think.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 10:56 am 
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cribbj wrote:

Mark, sorry, I wasn't referring to the piston/valve clearances, but the stem to guide clearances, and it does seem like you had a too tight fit with at least one of them. Also a little weird that your valves were leaking a bit during the leakdown? Did you lap them in?


The valve stems are
intake = 0.1962"
exhaust = 0.1953"

The guides are in theory reamed to 0.19685"

Very odd about the leak...and I think the heart of the problem.

Yes, lapped.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 12:34 pm 
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Found the old paperwork for the valve stuff, went to order and realized the intake seats are not on the invoice so I'm not sure what they are and need to measure the head...or guess and get an order in....it's only a $16 mistake if I'm wrong..... plus shipping...order both and try to get them here for the weekend I guess.

edit - ordered the parts but they don't give any options on shipping.....its shipping take it or leave it 3-7 days.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 5:14 pm 
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So just shopping for a new sharp reamer for the guides and I noticed this on both the HHS and carbide reamers kibblewhite sells
Quote:
Do not attempt to use these reamers to size C630 Nickel Aluminum Bronze guides. Also, once a reamer is used on Cast Iron, it is not advisable to then use it on a bronze guide.


My guides are C630 of course.....perhaps its not really reamable...more digging to do.

yeah....I ordered a couple guide hones. I need to see if I have a hole gauge for 5mm if not I'll get one of those too. I also ordered a couple cobalt reamers that should get me really close.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 9:37 pm 
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Bench clean, engine on bench ready to finish the tear down


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 10:08 am 
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I ordered a small hole gauge set and a 5mm minus pin to be a go gauge and I can borrow a 0.197 minus pin to be the no-go gauge...between the 2 I think I'll be certain the guide clearance is right. This stuff should be here by the time I get the heads torn down so I can inspect and confirm the issue was what I suspect it was.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:57 pm 
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Followed up with the cylinder people today....and learned they've been back in stock for a couple weeks. It seems the sales guy did call me but I tend to ignore numbers I don't recognize and he didn't leave a message....but now the cylinder is order and will arrive in about a week. The heads won't be done in a week I'm pretty sure of that so now I'll have a pile of work to knock out.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 1:39 pm 
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mk e wrote:
Followed up with the cylinder people today....and learned they've been back in stock for a couple weeks. It seems the sales guy did call me but I tend to ignore numbers I don't recognize and he didn't leave a message....but now the cylinder is order and will arrive in about a week. The heads won't be done in a week I'm pretty sure of that so now I'll have a pile of work to knock out.


just realized that in a way this is BAD! Its still nice here so a repaired engine in the next few weeks will make it hard not to want to drop it back in the car and drive....you know...because this time everything's going to work perfect.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 8:22 am 
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I use a Sunnen guide hone and a small bore gauge. I measure each valve and keep track on a spread sheet. I then hone the guide until I get a drag fit. Then I measure the hole and take small amounts until it fits with the clearance I want. I end up with .002 - .0025 inch. I have some valves that will not fit in other holes. A few tenths make a huge difference. After a few guides, I get a good feel about how much to hone and it goes much faster. The part I find interesting is that when I start on a guide, I can feel how bad out of round and or tapered it is. Some a really nice and some take a bit of honing before they straighten. I haven't had any that don't make it. This hold true with all of the heads I do, 355, 308, 275, 512s, 246, doesn't matter, they are all in need of careful finishing.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 8:28 am 
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Its the measuring and checking part I tend not to be goo at...which is why I'm not a professional engine builder. Just put a reamer though and it must be good!...usually.....or not it turns out. Gauges will be here today or tomorrow and I'll measure but I'm pretty sure I know what I'm going to find. C630 is really tough stuff it turns out.


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