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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 8:23 am 
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FoaTech wrote:
I seem to be getting a lot of the blame here. Lana is gonna hate me and that scares me a little. :?


There has to be a scapegoat and it can't be me, I need to live long enough to complete the project....but you're 1000 miles away so.... :)

Started on the cylinder last night by rough sawing to length. Now, the saw blade was total shit, had to change it to a less shit one...time to buy new blades but I got it cut. When to the lathe and found that I no longer own a single dial indicator or base or anything else that frikin works and has all its parts....time to by new indicators.....I haven't working in a machineshop since ...1995? so all my stuff is that vintage I think and all about dead...time to shop.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 11:45 am 
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Double posting here and the dyno thread as it seems to fit both.

On my long drive home yesterday I was pondering that the total seal people say not to let an engine with new rings idle, highway driving for 2000-3000 miles is best or a night of racing is ok, I think I have that right. That gets me pretty quickly to run it in on the dyno as I work on lower power tuning which gets me to the dyno needs to be working not parked in storage upstairs…..dyno working means pumps and noise and, and , and…….but wait. I have 4 mufflers, 2 loud, 2 quieter for normal driving that are rated to 250-300hp. The dyno needs about 1 gal/20hp, max load is 1gal/10hp but general use 1:20 is good and a hose has to flow 5gal/min, maybe 10….so 100-200hp worth….so I just need to get it on the engine (once there is an engine), hook a garden hose to the valve it came with and I can do a proper bench break-in without a whole lot more.

The other piece I got thinking about was flow rates and pressure. The dyno has a 1” feed hose…..100gpm is not going through that hose and valve, I said that before. The stuska 1200hp uses 2 1” hoses and their old literature talks about 35psi…..35 is a single spa pump like I’m told most people use on their dynos. The old gopower stuff talks about 20-30psi. The single rotor gets 500hp from that, almost what the single stuska gets…..hmmmm.….I’m pretty sure if I just unscrew the 1” quick connect fitting, grind out the threads and fit an o-ring seals manifold I can come up with a way to get 1.25” or maybe 1.5” or maybe a pair of 1 or 1.25 hoses for to keep it more flexible and a simple spa pump should be ok. The higher pressures have got to be about getting water though small feed hoses.

Then water supply. With break-in type loads a cheap 275 gal farm tank is which is about an hour of engine run before its too hot and about a 3 min full power pull which seems like a very long time….1 minute seems like a very long pull, about 500rpm/sec is normal I think so 2000-9500 is 15 sec and the farm tank is good for a dozen pulls, more really because there will be tuning time between pulls. 275 or so seems like a big enough tank. Build a platform for it so the return pump and spa pump sit under the tank and I lose just a 3x3 spot in the corner. This seems like a plan and if I need more than 10 pulls I can drain and refill the tank with cold water from the garden hose in about an hours so way bother with anything more? I was being stupid.

With the dyno up and working for at least low power stuff I’ll WAY better understand noise levels and what needs to be done. Another argument to just hook it up.

Last, gopower does not have an adapter for my clutch spline…I’ll need to make that ….wait….a thought is coming……I have 2 adapters that came with the dyno and I have a flywheel that takes a 7.25” clutch, ebay might have a clutch that fits my flywheel and one of my adapters if I look.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 12:36 pm 
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mk e wrote:
Last, gopower does not have an adapter for my clutch spline…I’ll need to make that ….wait….a thought is coming……I have 2 adapters that came with the dyno and I have a flywheel that takes a 7.25” clutch, ebay might have a clutch that fits my flywheel and one of my adapters if I look.


I think I have an 1 1/8" 10 pline GM adapter with the dyno...this thing plus a plate to bolt it to my flywheel might be what I need.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Cheater- ... ,1784.html


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 11:20 pm 
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cheap 275 gal farm tank

Why don't you use your swimming pool?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2019 11:30 pm 
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Lowell_Brown wrote:
cheap 275 gal farm tank

Why don't you use your swimming pool?


One word....Lana. pool is off limits, no discussion


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 10:57 am 
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Dynoing the engine is still a long ways off but a couple of suggestions:

1. Get the dyno and the control system for it completely sorted out before you put your FrankenFerrari engine on it. Pick up an old, cheap, running junkyard engine, preferably carbureted so it'll run without any modern hassles such as ECU's, immobilizers, etc. and use it to get the dyno completely sorted and ready for the FrankenFerrari.

2. I wouldn't run the FrankenFerrari on the SORTED dyno with your EngineLab setup - I'd use a cheap ECU that is loaded with a known working program to be safe. In this way you can be sure the injectors and ignition are doing their jobs correctly, and you can focus on getting the cylinder pressures up quickly with dyno load, and getting the rings seated.

You surely don't want to be fooling around with a misbehaving dyno or a temperamental EngineLab ECU while the engine is idling and the rings are glazing themselves again. Been there & done that and it's heartbreaking......

Once the engine is well broken in, it'll be safe to change out the ECU to your EngineLab setup and start tuning.

There's just too many variables and unknowns to risk putting all this together initially and hoping for the best.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 1:42 pm 
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My thought at the moment is use the dyno as is with the manual controls and fitting sizes it came with. Just bolt it on, hook up a garden hose and know I have about 150ftlbs of braking available. I also have a thought that involve making sure there is a second set of hands and eyes on site because I can't watch everything at once....so there should be nothing to sort other than the physical connections. I might add the pressure transducer.....but I'll probably hold that until I upgrade the water system as I don't need the data for anything I can think of.

Once the engine is happy and I have the low power stuff all tuned I'll upgrade the water system to start doing higher power stuff and should know at that point what kind of noise problem I have to deal with if I want to proceed. The other option would be engine back in the car and do high power somewhere else.

I'm not opposed to starting with another ECU....I could even load the AEM firmware into mine, it is AEM hardware nd I did register it so i have access. I followed their pin-out for the most part so it should be straight forward with no need to even change any wires....I'd need to double check 12 cyl compatibility, that is really where most ECUs fall short. Then the issue of there is no known tune for this engine...that's probably the harder part and I'm not sure if trying something else would put me ahead or behind....don't know.

I do know I got a couple dial indicators fixed this morning so I should be in the shop making a cylinder :)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 2:00 pm 
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WTF...even dial indicators cause cancer now!


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 5:08 pm 
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I think I put plenty on it


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 6:28 pm 
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The mill has been stilling for 3 years, never used since the fire and needed a lot of cleanup, and re indicate everything straight after the move so that killed a couple hours.

0.010" off the deck and it will pass for flat again....there is always a burning line around the weld and usually a bit of sinking...that is what the 010 cleaned up. Chamber next


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