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Running soon?

My dad was able to check out a 55" belt that fit. 54.5" is too short to fit and 55.5" is just barely tight with the tensioner fully relaxed. He said the tensioner is about halfway through its travel, but the 55" will work. I won't be able to look at it until 4/02, but I might move the tensioner slightly to put it a little further in its travel in order to give myself a little more room for the belt to stretch over its service life.

perfect is the opposite of good....its good now

Yeah, it should work ok now and I can "improve" it later.

I also need to fully bolt down the A/C compressor and see if/how that affects tensioner position.

Edit: I'm also thinking there's a non-zero chance I'll have to move the tensioner anyway, as it might not play nice with the battery tray. Since I flaked on marking the battery tray location on the front of the engine before I pulled the engine out, I don't have good feel for how close or exactly where the battery tray is going to be.

I'll stay with a stock style AGM battery for a bit, but I'll eventually remove the battery tray (cutting spot welds req'd) and switch over to a compact lightweight lithium battery.

I've created about 60 of the probably 200 lines I'll need in my wire list to build the harness

I need to put together:
=>Power distribution, fusing and A/C Comp & Fuel pump relays from 1987 Fiero (Have paper manual)
=>Manifold harness production break from 1995 Cadillac (Have paper manual)
=>Most engine wiring from 2006 DTS (Electronic diagrams from Sinister)
=>ECM connector, oil level switch/temp sender, oil & A/C pressure transducers & MAF wiring from 2006 Corvette (Electronic diagrams from Sinister)
=>4 wire oil pressure sender/switch wiring from Olds Aurora (1999?)
=>DBW throttle wiring from 2006 STS (Electronic diagrams from Sinister)

The wiring won't be tucked... The harness will mount to the engine via P-clamps. It will be somewhat out of sight via careful routing, but will be well worked and well thought out at every point.
Once I get the wire list done, I need to put together the wire and connector order, then build the harness. Once the harness is built, I'll look at the numbers of wires in all the branches and forks and order enough of the right sizes of DR-25 to dress the harness. Once all that's done, I can add the bulkhead pass-through and ECM connectors.

I'm thinking pretty hard about a Deutsch bulkhead disconnect for the firewall, instead of trying to rework an OE pass-through.
I've heard of people having problems with the C203 connector. I can see that some might, but I haven't. 14 cavity male/female pairs are not very common, so I'm not sure what to replace it with. I might do a pair of 8 cavity Delphi GT connectors. The clutch switch wire has already taken up an empty cavity in the C203.
I know I'll need 6 wires for the DBW pedal and 4 for cruise control, so I could add a 10 cavity Delphi GT connector just for those functions.

Of course there's a long correspondence course I have to get done for the Navy this week, then an in-person course next week, then a murder board (which is kinda like water board, but not quite) for my warfare pin sometime in April.

Wiring seems to take forever....but it means you're CLOSE!

Yeah! Getting there!

On further thought... if I use one 8 cavity GT connector and one 10 cavity GT connector to replace the C203, that will give me 18 cavities to replace 14 cavities. I can use female terminals in those two connectors on the ECM harness. I can then add another 10 cavity GT connector for DBW & Cruise, but install the male terminal side on the ECM harness to differentiate it from the 10 cavity replacing the C203 connector.

Sounds like a plan. Sometimes a forced pause which seems annoying actually ends up helping

Last weekend I got a couple of small things done, as well as a bunch of lines on the wire list.

Added a T to the oil pressure elbow in order to make a fitting tree. The oil pressure transducer should stick out over top of the cradle crossmember, while the switch/sender should hide behind it. I'll have to turn the wiring tight so that it doesn't hang down below the bottom of the pan.



I clocked the alternator rear case in order to bring the stud close to the block and bring the rear mounting boss close to the existing hole in the bracket. The bracket doesn't fit because it was designed for a CS144 alternator and this is a CS130.



A longer shot down the side of the block. Yes, I'll have to do a lot more modification to the bracket in order to use the stud. I just drilled the hole quick and dirty in order to get everything into relative position.



Accessory drive with belt. I hope it clears the battery tray.



Closeup of the bracket... All I really did was move the tensioner and the idler... and the top alternator mount a little bit



And the junction block + mount bracket, before I drilled the mounting holes