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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2022 11:17 am 
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I got a large diameter tensioner pulley selected over the weekend. I didn't measure, but it looks like it's 3.25" or so. That's above my arbitrary target of 3" for idler and tensioner pulleys to keep their speeds down. It just barely fits with the current belt.

Since my accessory drive looks basically final, I tore it down so I could POR-15 the bracket along with my intermediate axle bracket, pieces of my house, parts of the engine cradle where the 20 year old powder coating is peeling and some touch up spots on The Mule's tub that I'd missed previously.

I have Navy duty the next two weekends. I'm thinking that over Memorial Day weekend, I'll get the engine and transmission assembled and on the cradle. I'll put the powertrain up on a heavy duty cart I've been using as a workbench so that it's at a good height for working on wiring. I also need to snag updated glamo(u)r photos that actually include the Cometic head gasket envelope.

I also need to trim the alternator rear adapter and mod the alternator rear bracket to open up space around the output stud.


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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2022 10:15 am 
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Backordered terminals from Mouser arrived yesterday.
I have been slammed with other stuff and have not been able to finish the updated wire list yet.


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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2022 11:01 am 
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Still hoping to get the engine and trans onto the cradle this weekend?


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PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2022 1:27 pm 
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We'll see... have a bunch of other stuff crowding for time as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2022 11:03 am 
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LOL! So it really has been since May that I last posted.
I was on work travel for the first two weeks of June.
I went to Reno for the Mensa annual party the week of July 4th.
I picked up Covid there and basically out the rest of July.
Then I had Navy duty the first two weeks of August.
I'm also looking at work travel for four weeks from August into September.

I've gotten nothing mechanical done to the car, but I've been completing and refining my wire list, as well as building the spreadsheet tabs that will assemble my harness BOM automatically from the wire list. I've expanded my Google Sheets coding skills and have gotten pretty close to having the document I want built and ready to use to produce my harness order to Mouser and a couple of other places.

My challenge to myself was to document the harness build well enough that I could get >90-95% of what I would need to build the harness in one order, rather than starting with a small order and making 63 other orders, some of which would be for the wrong parts, as the build went on.

Right now I'm planning to make an order for all the connector bodies, TPAs, terminals, seals & wire. I'll then build the harness and see how long each leg is once it's assembled. Then I'll map out the cut list for DR-25 shrink tube and place an order for that.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 7:17 am 
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Time moves much faster than it it seems like it should

The DR-25 is a 2:1 shrink? I like the glue liner 3 or 4:1 stuff because its more forgiving to size selection and I've been using the nylon mess wire jacketing which seems to just fall out of the unglued stuff....but then cleaning up the glue when I change my mind sucks anmd the higher the shink ratio the thicker it can end up looking so it a pick your poison game I guess


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 10:57 am 
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DR-25 is 2:1. It is apparently *the stuff* that everyone uses for motorsports harnesses, or at least that's what I've heard. It's the only product I've found that meets SAE AMS-DTL-23053/16.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 11:12 am 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
DR-25 is 2:1. It is apparently *the stuff* that everyone uses for motorsports harnesses, or at least that's what I've heard. It's the only product I've found that meets SAE AMS-DTL-23053/16.


A quick look says the spec is specifically for 2:1 Polyolefin which is the most common heat shrink material and ratio. The lower shrink ratio means it can be thinner, so lighter but it means you need really size it carefully which makes the job a bit harder. My biggest issue though has been with the non-glued stuff not staying put and the nylon wrap pulling out. There are times though were I definitely prefer the thin, non-glue stuff, it just depends but mostly I use the glued stuff these days for whatever that's worth :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 12:28 pm 
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DR-25 is listed on the TE/Raychem website as "fluoro-elastomer", which is also a characterization of Viton, although Viton shrink tube is listed in McMaster as tested per SAE AMS-DTL-23053/13.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 1:18 pm 
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hmmmm....this is the standard you sited, SAE AMS-DTL-23053/16
Insulation Sleeving, Electrical, Heat Shrinkable, Crosslinked, Elastomeric Polyolefin, Flexible

It is for Polyolefin specifically

When I went to the TE site I found this:
Quote:
DR-25 flexible single wall heat shrink tubing made of crosslinked elastomer material and is available in black color with an operating temperature of -75 – 150 DEGC. These have shrink ratio of of 2:1.
Primary Product Color: Black
Wall Type: Single
Shrink Ratio: 2:1
Primary Product Material: Crosslinked Elastomer
Heat Shrink Tubing Flammability: Flame-Retardant


It just says cross linked elastomer, but the max temp is 150C, which would make it FEP which shrinks in the 150-170C range iirc, meaning the DR-25 doesn't meet the requirements SAE AMS-DTL-23053/16 and can't be used on normal PVC insulated automotive grade wire ....but would be perfect for the aircraft grade tefzel stuff which is quite popular in motorsport use and is what I use. I don't use FEP heatshrink though becaseu the nylon jacket I put on my harnesses melts below the FEP shrink temp.

unless I'm missing something that stuff won't work well for your application either, I think you need the polyolefin stuff


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