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Now that you think the bores are clean, try this. Wipe then again with a towel or rap covered in motor oil and post a pic....I bet they aren't clean. I learned that by losing a bet years ago......

Oh yeah... I'm not done cleaning the bores. Total Seal says to WD-40 a clean shop towel and wipe until the clean shop towel comes back out clean.

Fact!

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Quick tour of Promar:









My block is in the grey tub with the wooden torque plate case and head gasket on top of it.





Aaaaaaaand.... This is where the magic happens:
(I'm not sure we can embed video on this forum)

https://i.imgur.com/0aR5pgO.mp4

Glamour shots:











It all looks beautiful until I get to this one:



WTF, PTT? How TF am I going to bolt a flex plate to the engine side of this flywheel?

Well its certainly pretty even if there is no way to install it

It appears to be a universal flywheel that will be drilled for your crank? I would think the flexplate is sandwiched between the crank and flywheel. I did it that way on my racecar for years.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

It'll look great on my coffee table! (Actually I'll return it if I can get one from QM...)



There isn't room in the original transmission's bellhousing to do that.

I spec'd my first flywheel at 0.600 thick for a 2x 0.250" organic disk clutch. On actually talking to PTT, they said that the 2x 0.105" disk would still be ok for the street and would tolerate a lot more heat at the strip or track than the organic disks. There's another member of the Fiero community who has one and says it's fine on the street. He has an engine/transmission adapter plate, so he has a lot more room inside his bellhousing and I can't copy what he did.

The PTT engineer also pointed out some design flaws in my flywheel, so I took his advice and tried one of theirs. This flywheel is 0.840 thick, which actually puts the 2x 0.105 clutch at about the same overall height as the 2x 0.250" clutch with 0.600 flywheel would have... Both of which are at the max depth that will fit in my bellhousing.

If their 0.840 flywheel were 0.750 instead, I'd stack it on top of a flexplate in a heartbeat and never look back.

I have a design drawing of a flywheel including ring gear that QuarterMaster made back when Super Duty 4 powered Fieros were popular in IMSA racing. It's 0.730ish... so I hope QM can get my a flywheel. However, they're very busy. Tilton flat out said no, they're too busy. Seems like a weird way to respond to a request for a part that requires less machine time than their regular parts, but 'tevs.

I guess step 1 is ask them what they were thinking you were going to do?

For sure you sure be able to cut the center out of a flexplate and either drop a spacer ring on the back of th flywheel or remove the ridge they added for god knows what purpose....but maybe they have a slick design idea so worth asking.

The ridge is an anti-rotation feature for the bolt heads which go through from the engine side. The clutch is held in place via loose nuts.
When the engineer described it to me, I @$$umed it was a journal inboard of the bolt hole, rather than a ridge outboard. I can see that the flywheel would be incrementally lighter doing it this way, but I can also see that the milling operation that scallops the bolt circle flange could be adapted to trim an inboard ridge to keep such a flywheel just as light as this one.