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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:39 am 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
You don't have a fume hood built into the garage design? :P

I haven't done "assemblies" yet either. The screen cap above is one part studio.
My impression is that assemblies are only necessary if you want to put together things that move.


I want to put the bathroom walls in and then layout the shop area before cutting a hole for the fume hood, but yes it is planned to have one.

I thought the colors where different parts...oops.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:08 am 
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mk e wrote:

I'm really confused about what length stacks I need now. Dynomation6 has had a couple more updates but continues to insist shorter tuned lengths are better for hp, about 10.25" is about the best...i need to confirm that is posdible to build. It seems though like it's assuming flow losses build with length, which is true for a straight tube but I'm pretty sure that with enough taper its not true so the answer is suspect.

The other place -5 and -6 differ is the strength of the pulses with 6 really showing peaks as the stacks move in and out of tune.....im going to need to dyno a few options. But first I need to modify the printer to make the z more reliable and I'm not allowed to run it in the basement so I need windows and doors on the new garage.....some day


Here's what I was taking about. The line on top is the 10.25 stack, on the bottom is 16.75. Both tuned to the same rpm but the shorter stack is much smoother due to lower energy in the tuned pulses, that makes some sense. What I'm not sure about is the short stack makes more power.....

I checked last night and I'm about 9.25 valve to the bottom of the recesses in the TB where the stack sits, maybe 9.75" valve to the top of the TB, so 10.25 total is a doable length and give plenty of room for a nice airbox to fit under the hood. The new software also says that ITBs are the best setup for hp and when I go to something with a plenum (like say adding an airbox) I need to shorten the runners a bit or the tuned rpm drops...so 9.5" with a "flat tunnel ram" intake which is the best flowing plenum design choice and results in a not really a doable runner length.

Attachment:
2018_01_15 10_25 vs 16_75.JPG
2018_01_15 10_25 vs 16_75.JPG [ 166.46 KiB | Viewed 11938 times ]


Now in the older version DM-5 things were different. Around 18.5" stack gave what looks like about the same result as the 10.25 stack in the newer -6 version and a shorter 11" stack was smooth but down on power because while it is in tune at 9500 it really wanted to to make power up at 11k and with the headers tuned to match would crush the long stack at that rpm...that made sense to me because there is enough air and cam for this thing to pull to around 11k so 9k is really the cross-over from mid to high rpm...or so my theory went.

Attachment:
2018_01_15 DM5  11 vs 18.5.JPG
2018_01_15 DM5 11 vs 18.5.JPG [ 207.78 KiB | Viewed 11938 times ]


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 10:26 am 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:

I haven't done "assemblies" yet either. The screen cap above is one part studio.
My impression is that assemblies are only necessary if you want to put together things that move.


Found it, its at the bottom left. Default is part which is why that is all I ever saw but, new document, click the assembly tab and it works fine. Kind of obvious but not how other softer I've used does it I never thought to look there.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:35 am 
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Here's the stack for 10.25" length. No real way to attach them yet as they are too short to use the clips the way the ducati stacks attached.....


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:29 pm 
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mk e wrote:
TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:

I haven't done "assemblies" yet either. The screen cap above is one part studio.
My impression is that assemblies are only necessary if you want to put together things that move.


Found it, its at the bottom left. Default is part which is why that is all I ever saw but, new document, click the assembly tab and it works fine. Kind of obvious but not how other softer I've used does it I never thought to look there.


Yeah, as I said it's weird compared to more mainstream systems and really has the feel of being built by people who'd never used CAD professionally.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 10:18 am 
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Just for a change of pace.....I've decided I really don't like the 550 wheels on the car and want something that looks a lot more original 308 but 18". I found these that appear to fit the bill if I paint them silver. I like without the bolts so its more 308 original looking but the 288 has bolts so its clearly something the factory did in 1984 or their hotrods, but stock 308 is better I think, I need to find out what exactly is available in the sizes I would want, which is of course a whole other question.......I hate to divert money or attention but when important things are on hold my mind tends to wander.....

I want to lose the 348 seat I installed too so I'm semi on the hunt for a seat of 308 seats in need of so love....in the form of re-doing the form to improve the bolsters and recover to look stock. Yet another project I don't have time of resources for.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 10:47 am 
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Back to more relevant. I started laying out the short stacks and will probably make then part of the airbox base....I need an air box and filter setup before I can drive so I might as well make something. I know this is a tuned length, it might want to be 1/4" longer or shorter to put the peak exactly where I want it but its only +/- a couple hundred rpm and in the sims doesn't seem to matter hp really, higher rpm is a little more hp, like 2 or 3 more which in the 900hp scheme of things means nothing and lets me move forward....at least on the design front since I'm pretty sure there is a welding ban in the basement shop so serious fab work in holding on the new shop.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 8:10 pm 
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mk e wrote:
Just for a change of pace.....I've decided I really don't like the 550 wheels on the car and want something that looks a lot more original 308 but 18". I found these that appear to fit the bill if I paint them silver. I like without the bolts so its more 308 original looking but the 288 has bolts so its clearly something the factory did in 1984 or their hotrods, but stock 308 is better I think, I need to find out what exactly is available in the sizes I would want, which is of course a whole other question.......I hate to divert money or attention but when important things are on hold my mind tends to wander.....

I want to lose the 348 seat I installed too so I'm semi on the hunt for a seat of 308 seats in need of so love....in the form of re-doing the form to improve the bolsters and recover to look stock. Yet another project I don't have time of resources for.



Go with the first picture ones. I like the second ones better with the center cap but those little nuts around will get old trying to clean them.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 8:43 pm 
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Pizzaman wrote:
Go with the first picture ones. I like the second ones better with the center cap but those little nuts around will get old trying to clean them.


The center cap is an option on either wheel. I want lug bolts, but don't really want the rim bolts to show, its ok but simple is good. I'd paint them silver too so they look almost like the stock wheels


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 4:06 am 
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mk e wrote:
Just for a change of pace.....I've decided I really don't like the 550 wheels on the car and want something that looks a lot more original 308 but 18". I found these that appear to fit the bill if I paint them silver. I like without the bolts so its more 308 original looking but the 288 has bolts so its clearly something the factory did in 1984 or their hotrods, but stock 308 is better I think, I need to find out what exactly is available in the sizes I would want, which is of course a whole other question.......I hate to divert money or attention but when important things are on hold my mind tends to wander.....


Circumference bolts bad. No bolts good. Remove center Image underscore lighting bolt logo, replace with Ferrari Prancing Horse like on the originals.


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