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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 7:43 am 
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I think I probably make more mistakes than the rest of you combined.....when I first started machining one to the guys smiled after noticing the scrap part next to the good one and said "everythings nice cause we make it all twice" ...or thrice in my case :)

I FINALLY remembered to start the data log before each run attempt so I've got a lot of data to look over before the next run. The throttle didn't seem to be responding propperly, bank 1 was around 1 lambda, bank 2 was 1.3, no idea why it stalled....lots of things to track down and sort out.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:41 am 
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mk e wrote:
I have a wee bit more tuning before it drives.... but it does start so set the volume to 11

https://youtu.be/Pz-Oj4xJi2w


Nice to see and hear it start!
Keep it up!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:40 am 
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Montreal328 wrote:

Nice to see and hear it start!
Keep it up!


I figured you guys deserved a little taste even if its not everything yet :)

Thats at about 800-900rpm according to the logs. I lied before, both banks show very lean on that run which I suspect means a few cylinders weren't running....I think its probably actually pretty rich and by start 4 that I filmed it had fouled a few plugs.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 10:56 am 
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Don't you have 12 O2 sensors so you can look at each cylinder on its own? :P


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 12:56 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Don't you have 12 O2 sensors so you can look at each cylinder on its own? :P

I have 18 O2 bungs....but currently only 6 sensors. I was just looking at that data and it's a little odd. 1 sensor is not reading, the must be the mystery wire I see not plugged into anything at the ECU. The others you can see the cylinders firing while I crank, the it goes to a lambda 1during run and since these are NB the mean voltage .3-.6. That doesn't match the WB reading though......I need to sort that out and also confirm the 3 cylinders on each sensor are times right so I know for sure where the problems are


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 1:04 pm 
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Looking through it a little bit I found I used the calibration formula for the wrong O2 sensor controller....I'll fix it but it's only off a little and doesn't explain the mismatch between the NB and WB sensors. I'll recalibrate the WB sensors themselves and see what that does. Another possibility is that the slip joints between the headers and the collectors are sucking in air so the WB after the joint is leaner than the NB before the joint. Calibrate first, then RTV if I still have a mismatch.

The voltages off the 3 NB sensors that are reading are quite similar so either each collector group has a cylinder misfiring or they were all running, just running very lean. A plug read will answer that.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 3:51 pm 
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I looked through all the logs. It looks like it was stupid rich the first couple starts And throttle closed rpm was around 2500...I turned it off thinking the thottle was stuck but tips was 4% right where it was set and MAP was down to 41kpa , notbing wrong other than it was stupid rich.

Then it looks like cylinders started to foul plugs and shut down, which make the O2 reading look lean. I need to put in clean plugs and lean it out before next test.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 7:54 pm 
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Tonight I put new plugs in and adjusted it do it doesn't really start at all, it just sort of sets the plugs whole 1/2 starting. Battery tired now, tomorrow I'll look for a compromise.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 10:02 am 
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mk e wrote:
Tonight I put new plugs in and adjusted it do it doesn't really start at all, it just sort of sets the plugs whole 1/2 starting. Battery tired now, tomorrow I'll look for a compromise.


I'm so confused.....I've never had so much trouble getting an engine to start and run well. Usually if you just get it anywhere near right it works....so maybe I'm nowhere near right.

Tonight I'll add some more timing either at cranking or as soon as it fires. I tried less last night thinking it would stop the popping it had the night before but for sure that didn't help anything.

I'm going to pull out some fuel too.....which I tried last night then started adding back when it didn't start.....more timing might change the result....I guess.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 7:19 am 
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I remain confused.

When I got home yesterday I pulled th fuse on the injectors and cranked it quite a bit to dry it out before going out for family time. Then 3-4 hours to recharge and loaded the new tune info.

It cranks fine with the timing at 15, not so fine at 20 so 15 it is then I have it jump to 20 at 300 rpm, cranking speed is 200ish. It was 10 in the whole region .....it didn't really seem to fix anything though. It had no interest in starting really until I tuned the fuel back up. There seems to be a pretty fine line between it need a lot of fuel to start but will fol plugs if it doesn run long enough to heat up and clear itself out.

I also noticed I'm no longer seeing oil presure. I really don't want to continue any other work until I confirm there actually is oil pressure. I confirmed that the gauge itself is working. The sending unit is a bit tough to get to and replacements were nla last I checked....so I'd like to check it some other way before attacking the sending unit.


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