gemellocattivo.com

Hers an interesting article about 3D metrology and 3D printed sand molds being used to resurrect a Delage race car.
http://www.enginelabs.com/news/video-us ... e-history/

I finished the stack...a little short and the filament got tangled near the end of the print and I just reset and cut the g code to finish rather than start over on a temp part, but it didn't come out too bad for a 1st attempt

I rewired the relays to add the safety relay and it all seems to be working right. I decided against the timer at least for now.

Installed a new throttle driver...the old one died, I assume because I never added the capacitor they said was needed....so I added that too. I had to retune the pid but the throttle is working nicely again.

I wired in the radiator fan and it's working right.

Installed the straps on the drivers side fuel tank and vent hoses on the passage tank.

Tied up a few loose wires under the car and bolted the shifter to the trans......i think it should be ready for a short drive.

.....it wouldn't start of course though. First I'd forgotten the fuel injector fuse....i pull that out anytime I'm playing with anything these days. Fuse back in, now loud popping???? ....hmmmmm....check the timing and it's gone nuts, different random answer each time the key it tuned. That is what it was doing before I tuned the VR filters....no idea why that would be wrong now, but I ran out of time so it will be a mystery for a new day.

I spent a little time with this last night and after a few setting changes I think it was working again but the battery was low (I was crank with plug in to have the right cranking rpm and rpm variations) and it was late (I hadn't put the charger on the battery the night before so I had to wait a couple hours before I could work) so I didn't do the timing light check of try to fire it up........but I still don't love what I'm seeing. I didn't love it before either but the timing light was saying it was working so I moved on....but....

I'll post the logs later but what I can log and see in the software is the duration of each tooth. I have a 36-1 wheel so there should be 35 at about 1 duration and 1 at double where the missing tooth is. If there are any long pulses other than the missing tooth it really buggers things and its pretty easy to find a setting that stops that from happening....but there always seem to be occational short pulses that I don't understand and don't go away no matter what I set the trigger point at. I would think if I set the trigger low I would get extra pulses (so short duration) and too high I should miss pulses (long duration) and in the middle it should be right.....but I see short pulses at every setting. I guess I need to put the scope on it and see if its an actual signal issue, I'll do that tonight but last itme (back in Jan) I had the same issue and found no problem with the scope traces....I'll confirm it though. And I can't understand what changed.....I guess it's got to be cranking a little faster in the warm weather so maybe I need to make the settings more rpm based than they are....I have crnak settings and run settings but maybe I need 150rpm, 175 rpm sor somehting like that......but first is confirm the trigger signal on the scope.

I put a scope on it and didn't find anything wrong or even concerning and it's not setting any errors in the ecu.....but the way is not reading it correctly. It got mostly happy with what it wad doing by cranking up the noise cancellation to a point that won't in any way work above cranking rpm......i just ordered an external vr adapter from haltech so that will be the next test.

I've decided this is a lie.

On the crank the the signal it strong and clean which is what I was focused on, but there is a mis-match betwen the sensor core and the tooth width resulting in a flatat the zero crossing point...which means there will be jitter or random error in the tooth position readings. I should have noticed that before and its probably why the ECU is struggling to read it. I think I need to replace the sensor....

Looking at the cam signal, its weak which I knew but there is also odd noise in it.....I suspect that at cranking speed the cam itself is not moving very smoothly and combined with the weakness its just hard to read. I think I need to replace the senor with one that is not sensative to this

VR sensors out, hall sensors (which I don't normally like too much) in. I have one that should work nicely for the cranks, I just need to make and adapter.

For the cam I ordered this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=gs10070 ... s2CLdSedBM:

Cute little thing, same brand/family as the one I have for the crank but only 1" long so it shouldn't be ugly on the cam cover. Its a weird thread though 15/32-32, the tap may not make it for the weekend.

These changes should resolve all my timing issues....should......

Progress was slower than I'd hoped...but in the end it was progress. I had a hall sensor so I made an adapter so it would bolt in right where the VR sensor came out. That turned out pretty good.

Everythign I ordered arrived Saturday so that was great. The sensor I bought for the cam is short but has an odd thread so I needed a special tap..I just opened up the whole a little and new threads, perfect.

The sensors are designed for 5-24 volts but need an exterrnal resistor matched to the voltage you use. I set it up for 5V and put the resistor in the connector thinking it will be safe there.

These sensor need 3 wires but I made the harness for VR sensor that only need 2 wires....so I had to make a new subharness. I could have just run the 3rd wire separate, but I really like shielded wire for stuff like this and I had just enough left over.....I now have about 1 foot left over.

Great, ready to try Sunday morning by 9:30....so all day to tune and hopefully get a drive in.....but it was not to be. Before hooking the new sensor to the ECU I put the scope on it and saw ....nothing useful, just about a 0.5V flat line...WTF? Checked the power it was good, but something....ohhhh...black is signal blue is ground, I read it wrong and mixed them which meant cutting open the heat shrink and to move the pins and also the resistor.

A little wasted time but I found it and now there's a signal!...that is random noise but I believe if I squint I can make out the trigger pulses. hmmmm.......if works fine in my had waivign a wrench past it, nice and clean....maybe too far from the wheel? nope! maybe too close? nope! Maybe still too close? Nope! noting but noise. Maybe I damged the sensors when I miswired? I had the same sensors I used for the crank on the front wheels so I pulled one and set it up for the crank....no change which is great because I didn't have a spare for the cam but now I need a new sensor for the wheel. hmmmmm..........I've used these before for testing ECU stuff int he shop and not had a problem and found it the best hall senor I ever found.....I see haltech and the MS distributor are now selling them so they work for them......WTF?????...hmmmm....it says 5-24V but I'm pretty sure in testing I used 12V...maybe that? YES!!!! With 12V its prefect, but now the resistors are wrong. Cut the connectors back apart, new resistors and wire to 12V and signals are good.

Connect to the ECU change the settings and set the timing.....hmmmm.....its not loving it and the timing is erratic. Again WTF!?!?!? The signals look really good! Its really frikin hot in the garage and I'm even hotter......deep breathe.....

A little time messing with the noise cancelation settings and sync is rock stable. The manual suggests starting with 10 for both crank and cam and gives some math for calculating the max values that you can use based on redline and number of teeth. 15/100 seems a winner and should be fine to at least 10k rpm. I was concerned that I wasn't seeing the missing tooth in the log file wiht NC above 7 or 8 but I think that is a logging issue and its the false triggers that were causing all the issues so NCup until false triggers are gone and ....perfect. The old sensors needed 25 or 30 for crank and 200+ for the cam which are not ok past about 6k rpm so the new setup is working about 2x better and I'm happy.

The timing is set.....and its dinner time, the battery is about dead and I've pretty much ignored the kids all day except for making them turn the key for me so I can watch the timing. Thats it for the day, time to let the battery charge, take a shower becasue I'm just dripping wet and really missing my air conditioned basement shop then dinner and some time with the family, maybe it will drive next time.

I like it. Deffo sounds like progress. You are dangerously close to getting in some seat time.

I circled around Friday and caught up on the last few posts. Glad to see an update for the weekend effort.

I have a wee bit more tuning before it drives.... but it does start so set the volume to 11

https://youtu.be/Pz-Oj4xJi2w

Mark, we're all in awe of this project and what you're doing, but please keep posting about your faux pas, as well as your successes - it makes you seem a little more like the rest of us