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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 7:43 pm 
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Mark, Do you own one of those cheap infrared pyrometers from Harbor Freight? Much better than wetting your fingers and touching the headers? They work great for header temps and usually can pick them up for $14 on sale.

I can also get my hands on an Innovate LM2 if you think it would help? It only reads one WBo2


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:47 am 
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kkrace wrote:
Mark, Do you own one of those cheap infrared pyrometers from Harbor Freight? Much better than wetting your fingers and touching the headers? They work great for header temps and usually can pick them up for $14 on sale.


I don't...I see them in Lowes every time I'm there on a Lana project and think about grabbing one....but they are a lot more than $15 at lowes. I wonder what you get for the extra money?

I know we were using one at work and to get real temps we had to paint the surface with a paint that has a known emissivity....but I guess I that doesn't really matter for pipe that you just want to know if they are hot or not (which used to be a web site were you rate pics) so the exact number isn't important. The real problem would be getting it reading on the front pipes....the only way to see really see them is from under the car....maybe a mirror.


kkrace wrote:
I can also get my hands on an Innovate LM2 if you think it would help? It only reads one WBo2


I have 2 or those now in the 2 bank collectors but also now have the code to get the ECUs internal WB controllers working so in theory I can use the ECU to do the WB reading and read up the the 2 LM2s.

I think my first step will be to actually look at what I'm getting off the the NB sensors and see if I can pull out the cylinder data the way I think I can. If that works I'm good for now and can switch the WB control to the ECU when I get time. If it doesn't work I'll need to install the NB sensors in the pipes and use the CAN expander to read them instead of MAP or get a second CAN expander maybe....and get it working as I haven't done that yet.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 11:13 am 
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mk e wrote:
kkrace wrote:
Mark, Do you own one of those cheap infrared pyrometers from Harbor Freight? Much better than wetting your fingers and touching the headers? They work great for header temps and usually can pick them up for $14 on sale.


I don't...I see them in Lowes every time I'm there on a Lana project and think about grabbing one....but they are a lot more than $15 at lowes. I wonder what you get for the extra money?

I know we were using one at work and to get real temps we had to paint the surface with a paint that has a known emissivity....but I guess I that doesn't really matter for pipe that you just want to know if they are hot or not (which used to be a web site were you rate pics) so the exact number isn't important. The real problem would be getting it reading on the front pipes....the only way to see really see them is from under the car....maybe a mirror.


[quote="kkrace"]

I suspect neither is the highest quality but I don't think the one at Lowes is any better than the one at HF. One died after a couple years but the others seem to work just fine. I use it for all sorts of things on the cars and also for powder coating.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 11:28 am 
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kkrace wrote:

I suspect neither is the highest quality but I don't think the one at Lowes is any better than the one at HF. One died after a couple years but the others seem to work just fine. I use it for all sorts of things on the cars and also for powder coating.


I looked in Lowes last night when I was there. $40 is a 700F max, $80 is a 1000F max. The cheap ($26 at the moment) harbor freight is 968F.

I think first up is see if I can get the O2 data reading for each cylinder. The ECU shipped yesterday ground from CA so I'll have it next week and I want to add a safety relay before I do any more run testing....and Lana had me pick up 10 more boxes of hard wood flooring (I picked up 10 2 weeks ago) and pointed me bedroom 3 so that wil slow me down a bit. But spring is coming and this thing is going to drive.....


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 25, 2017 10:12 pm 
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Montreal328 wrote:
Holy Moly, those are some scary scissors....


Randall Made Knives Orlando Florida are famous world wide for the finest hand made knives

Talk about Hand Made!

randallmadeknives.com

Freedom Arms

Freedomarms.com

Talk about machine precision!

Talk about

gemmellocattivo


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 10:57 pm 
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Beautiful art pieces. And shiny! I like shiny, usually RED shiny, but I'll settle with blue on this one. Go blue FrankenFerrari Go.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 29, 2017 10:12 pm 
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Montreal328 wrote:
Beautiful art pieces. And shiny! I like shiny, usually RED shiny, but I'll settle with blue on this one. Go blue FrankenFerrari Go.

The Big Ones are Roman Weapons

Authentic,Randall Made repro,s in Smithsonian

308 are like a Car Knife
that slices thru the air

Whats funny is they are a Tanto blade


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 7:21 am 
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mk e wrote:
kkrace wrote:

I suspect neither is the highest quality but I don't think the one at Lowes is any better than the one at HF. One died after a couple years but the others seem to work just fine. I use it for all sorts of things on the cars and also for powder coating.


I looked in Lowes last night when I was there. $40 is a 700F max, $80 is a 1000F max. The cheap ($26 at the moment) harbor freight is 968F.

I think first up is see if I can get the O2 data reading for each cylinder. The ECU shipped yesterday ground from CA so I'll have it next week and I want to add a safety relay before I do any more run testing....and Lana had me pick up 10 more boxes of hard wood flooring (I picked up 10 2 weeks ago) and pointed me bedroom 3 so that wil slow me down a bit. But spring is coming and this thing is going to drive.....

Another way would to get some iron constantan wire, twist the ends and use a radiator clamp on each pipe, you'll have to have a rotary switch good for 12 positions and a millivolt meter, but its a way to read temp. http://www.tnp-instruments.com/sitebuil ... _table.pdf

Are you still working on the house? My wife would pay for me to get out in the garage. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 9:06 pm 
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p2164 wrote:
Another way would to get some iron constantan wire, twist the ends and use a radiator clamp on each pipe, you'll have to have a rotary switch good for 12 positions and a millivolt meter, but its a way to read temp. http://www.tnp-instruments.com/sitebuil ... _table.pdf

Are you still working on the house? My wife would pay for me to get out in the garage. :)


Between Lana and work I've been pretty busy :(

...but hopefully some progress tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 9:59 am 
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It's almost time to bring out the 308 in my neck of the woods.


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