gemellocattivo.com

They make some nice cars, no question.

as for mine, I guess if I ever wanted to sell it would be very hard to put a number on and probably need just the right buyer......and would have to actually be running or its just a rough car with no engine.

Now I'm starting to run into the long term problems from the fire and the work the cleaners did. When I put the wheels on I found 19 lug nuts....almost enough. I just went hunting for the velocity stacks and found a box with 11 of them. Somewhere in the basement there is another lug nut and stack....somewhere. I suspect a lot of searches will end this way.

It fired up on the second try and wanted to idle at around 1000 rpm when I lifted my foot off the throttle. I didn't rev past 2000 and for sure all the cylinders weren't on. #5 didn't start and I'm not sure in the front bank....its really hard to touch the pipes so I'll need to pull all the plugs. I pulled a couple that were running and they just showed a little tan....but why not all 12?.....

oh an it didn't shut off when I turned off the key, that needs to get fixed.

My thought at the moment is #5 was just too lean to fire.

10 of 12 is 83%.

I think it was more like 6 or 8 of 12 which is an F or D at best.

I woke up wondering about TB sync and just checked.....7-11 are closed significantly more than the others, enough that those may have been getting no air at all. Doesn't explain the issue with #5 though. Next work hour I'll re-sync them all to a common physical position in the short term and but also see if I can figure out how to get CAN working in the ECU so I can read the individual MAP sensors I have.

I'm also going to do some rewiring of the fuel pump and injector relays so when the key is off they are off regardless of what the ECU is thinking.....I like that the engine runs but not so much when the key is off.

Good morning. Good news !
Keep digging, your going to get this and then the drive will be awesome.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I counted pop vs flywheel trigger teeth last night and Its about 10 degrees....not sure what that might be.

The timing chain is on a reduction drive and runs at 1/2 engine rpm (I think) with 23 teeth top and bottom (from the pic in the manual) so each toogh shoulf be about 31 degrees of crank rotation if my math is right. Probably not the timing chain.

The flywheel is 97 teeth, or just under 4 degrees...ciould still be the starter hanging and feeling something in the gear reduction starter....but its quiet when running so.....

I don't know.....

Unrelated I just made a couple changes to the way the ECU startup and coolant temp enrichment work to make it a little easier to work with. I think it will deliver the same fuel that I had set in the last start/run that seemed to work but should be smooth/better transition from crank to run. Hopefully I can give it a try today.

I sync'd the ITBs to a common physical position.

Engine fired right up but was still missing.....but for sure 5 was running this time and I guess 1 off in the rear, not sure about the front but wouldn't rev??? MAP wasn't changing...TPS wasn't changing. the throttle stopped working....I think the driver died I'll have to get a new one before any more engine testing. I hate when this happens....i guess I should have installed a capacitor like the instructions said was highly recommended.

I shipped the ECU back the the manufacturer to have a look at....they don't understand the key off with the engine running issue Ihad the other day. It stupid cold here right now anyway so nothing else was going to get done. I did sketch up a new power wiring scheme that should make it flat impossible for the key-off/enine0on issue to repart itself and ordered a few more relays....it just needs to warm up enough for me to re-wire that. I really need to get the cooling fan working too.