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I have been following your work since you started on the project.

I still covet your vertical mill.

NEVERTHELESS, CONGRATULATIONS.

Not a lot of progress over the weekend. Family time Saturday followed buying a blast cabinet sunday which took a lot of time to assemble....but now I can have clean spark plugs any time I need them

There is a lot of oil in cylinder 6 which is concerning. Couple others have some but 6 has quite a lot. I suspect tbis engine is coming back out...but hopefully that can be delayed until the fall.

I see some odd voltage readings coming from the NBO2 sensors.....like numbers over 2 volts when the sensor can't produce over 1V. I assume that is something to do with the way having 5v pull up resistor in it. I was trying to convert the voltage to lambda, but I just don't know want the numbers mean exactly so I need to change it to just logging the voltage until I can figure out the meaning on the values. This is important because I'm not getting useful numbers for the individual cylinders.

Oh, last night before the evening testing I wired the muffler valves closed thinking it car car would get a lot quieter.....it didn't I don't think.

Also I had it touching 6000rpm......that also could be why it's loud.

Ive got the vent just open on the oil tank and I have plug off on the front of the engine thinking I would prefer there is on pressure building up anywhere. I don't see anything near missing end plug but the open tank vent is spraying oil everywhere. I'll need to deal with that.

Ruh, roh........

I'm surprised with all the other wild/wacky/wonderful things you've done that you haven't built your own engine test stand, or engine dyno? I know you must be getting really good/fast at pulling that motor out by now, but it's still gotta be a PITA.

I keep threatening to take it to a local dyno shop "next time". The mental hold up is the wiring harness and needing to make one for dyno use. I am at the point where everything other than the airbox has been made and fitted so there is no longer a compelling arguement for needing the engine in the car other than removing it is admitting defeat.

I kind of expected that after the first season running I'd need/want to pull it out and tear it down for inspection is nothing else....we'll see. I think there is still a lot more I can do before I need to talk about engine out.....plus I need to build a garage to actually do the work in.

I just ordered a 150psi transducer to replace my oil pressure sending unit that I don't think it working. This will get me an accurate number in the ecua nd may use it to limit rmp or shut the engine down and wil;l use it to control ECU outputs to light the low pressure warning light and a pwm output to control the gauge on the dash. I have to says that its really easy to get used to having the ECU do anyhitng I please.

Maybe we need a section for DIY Dynos

John don't give him any crazy ideas or he'll never get this done.

Perhaps

For now I'll keep picking away at what I can. Last night I had that 1-6 plugs looking nearly healthy. Thats good.

I haven't pulled 7-12 but for sure something is wrong up there, 7-9 in particuly seem not to like to run. They are all connected wiring wise on both the injector and coil power and coil ground....I checked 7 quickly with the timing light and saw spark and I know I checked every cylinder for fuel and correct timing but Imay need to repeat that but my thought at the moment is that while I spent a ton of time making sure the coolant was staying in the coolant jactet I did not test the see if the ports were connected to the oil galley which could explain oil in cylinders and way lean mixtures.....I'll start check ing stuff before jumping to conclusions though.

I was about to give up on my NBO2 in the collectors which really are't doing anything very useful but I found an error in the code that for sure would damp out the signal (a key piece was running every 25ms instead of every 5msec) so I'll give it 1 last try.....this information would be very helpful so either those sensors are working tonight or I go back to the original plan of sensors at each pipe.

Awesome to hear her run! Hats off to you, mk_e

Pete

7-9 seem to do nothing.....but they were running before. I think its time to go back through everything again.... compression, fuel, spark, just to be sure that what was true still is, 3 next to each other makes me think wiring problem.

It would also be very helpful to have a full day to work. Last night I warmed up the engine, then put in clean plugs to eliminate any cold start causes of fouling. I didn't have time to pull them back out and look yet. I have decided I can't trust anything I'm seeing coming off the O2 sensors. I know 7-9 were not running but the WBO2 was onl;y showing about 10% lean. The NB02 are giving odd results I think becasue the ECU has a 5V 100k ohm pullup resitor on the analog inputs so when the sensor is cold it reads up around 4V and levels out at 1.3 or so once the heater warms it up.....which is also what it reads when its pig rich so I can't tell the difference between rich and dead. When most of the cylinders are running or have been and something shuts down I see 0.2-0.4V just as I'd expects but as it cools it passes back though the normal operation range on its way to 1.2V ....very hard to see and troubleshoot cylinders coming and going. Looking at the noise in the MAP signal vs crank position seems more useful but need to play with that a bit more.

I'm working on getting the CAN stuff working in the ECU so I can install analog input expander I have that adds 12 more analog inputs....like say for cylinder MAP of O2 signals. More data always helps.