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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:49 am 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
mk e wrote:
I"m not sold on the steel path...not because it isn't a fine option but its just hard to remove an alum part and replace with a steel one. Here are some of his pics


You could build a welded aluminum fabrication that you then re-solutionize and age to T6


isn't T6 solution plus work so only for forged or extruded....T4 is solution only I thought?


But yes or make it bulky enough not to need the extra strength of heat treat I guess.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 9:10 am 
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Adding extra bulk defeats the purpose of using aluminum...

T6 is solutionize + age to peak strength.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 9:23 am 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Adding extra bulk defeats the purpose of using aluminum...

T6 is solutionize + age to peak strength.


Right...I was thinking T8 was T6 for some unknown reason.....

The extra weight be damned everyone can see its aluminum so its light! :)

on the fsae car I did years ago the carriers were very thin 4130 box section weldments....much lighter than we could do with even heat treated alum. The whole frame was .028" wall 4130 but people saw the tube dia and that it was steel and assumed it was heavy. I like doing stuff in steel.....but I like the way raw alum parts look.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 10:50 am 
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I guess I need to get some 4643 rod and see if I can get the pizza oven up to 1000F quench temp.... I know the grill will do 400F aging temp.

Kind of scared to try hardenable rod on an factory casting not really knowing what they used....but on a weldment I make from known material it wouldn't scare me. 4010 or 4008 I guess is the rod if I knew for sure I had 356 parts...but if they are 355 then the rod is 4009. and they are both wrong if I'm adding 6061 parts to them so I usually just use 4043 general purpose and bugger the heat treat in the process....like on the uprights currently on the car where I moved the shock mounts for wider wheels 15+ years ago then put 15k-20k miles on with no issues.....I know they are not nearly as strong as stock but they seem to work fine so I think the design was limited be stiffness not strength and stiffness is basically unchanged so it works fine at the lower strength..maybe?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 11:17 am 
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It looks like 4943 works with 6xxx or 365. It is stronger than 4043 as welded and can be heat treated like 4643. That might be what I should have in the shop.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:44 am 
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it sure looks like this is the design not a prototype as pics of #2 roll in


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 4:43 pm 
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Is there a bushing where the shock bolts up?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 12:23 pm 
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Oh, duh. That's just a spacer for welding.

The Corvette hub is certainly a new and strong part, but there are BMW drive flange, bearing & hub assemblies that may work as well.

I @$$ume that since there are two of them, the bearings are a repackable tapered roller pair.

Image

If the problem is with the flange breaking off, why not have an outfit like Mark Williams or Strange make stronger hubs/spindles? We all know that Italian steel from the '60's and '70's was nothing to write home about... Hence Ducati's Desmo valvetrain.

With the Corvette bearing, it's at least easy to use the C6 parking brake and Corvette brake packages. I have a method to use the smaller Mitsubishi EVO VII parking brake that may make it easier to get brake packages that fit inside stock type wheels.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 1:10 pm 
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There is a place in england I think it was making a replacement axle from modern steel....maybe that is a fine answer. They are $1000 each I was told. Sean said the guy claims they are good 6-8 race seasons.

My 1st thought was a make new axles and fit a larger ID outer bearing and figure its solved. Its a big chuck of steel to cut though

Another option might be volvo parts with have the right bolt pattern....might be worth a look. A custom CV flange stub is a much smaller chuck of steel.

I'm not really sure what the right answer is...Sean took off running with a bolt on conversion and I'm sure it will work and be robust.....its not going to end up cheap to sell though since there is a ton of labor.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 12:10 pm 
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There's obviously a LOT of welding in Sean's design. Maybe that ends up making it lighter. It will be interesting to see how many track days the brake caliper lugs end up being good for.

I've never looked at a disembodied carrier, but it might be feasible to bore the outer bearing bore to go for a larger OD bearing with a significantly larger ID.

Where to the stubs actually break? right at the shoulder off the flange, I assume.


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