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Ok, whats the purpose of these little springings??

They hold the system together but let the joints flex as the engine moves so nothing cracks. The OEMs use flanges with doughnuts so it can move some and nothing leaks and it works but I've always had the best luck with simple slip joints and springs. I may not have put enough springs on though....we'll see.

Seems like all the racing exhaust sytems I've seen use the springs. I'm guessing the oem donuts seal better with higher back pressure? Only thing I'd be concerned with is anything before the O2 sensors but I guess you're not going to have a check engine light to worrry about?

The oil tank came today and the 16" tank is actually 16" plus the 1.5" for the filler and I'm not sure the hood will fit

I want to push it back into the corner which will mean cutting a notch for the frame so I'll probably shorten it a bit too. I also need to figure-out what fittings go with it. I'll deal with it tomorrow.

You know, I am thinking I'll connect a check engine light to tell me if something is wrong.....but it will be answering to MY parameters

I''ll had really good luck with high temp RTV in the slip joints....it seems to seal them up and not burn out so that's probably what I'll try on this system.

i got the ECU mod instructions today for 12 spark channels......I'll need to give that a try

You've NEVER met a component you didn't want to modify! That's why we luv ya man! Cheers.

LOL

I bought a nice new oil filter adapter so I didn't need to reuse the old modified one.....and just finished modifying it

That was not the plan of course, but the fitting just didn't fit, now they do. Off to the auto store for a couple oil filters before I mount it in the car so I'm sure the filters fit and are removable.

While I was grabbing the oil filters I picked up a new battery to help with measuring up what I need for a battery cable. The old alternator lead bolted to the old batter lead is just about perfect.....which of course led to "I wonder if it cranks over?

Oh yes it does

Back to work

I'm going to wire up a separate relay/fuse setup in back because it needs a lot of power. I went up to 1/0 cable and I'll run a 4g from the starter lug to the rear panel and another 4g from the starter lug to the alternator.

Cables ordered. Back to oil stuff