gemellocattivo.com

I'm starting to think about wiring which means connectors.....I remember seeing a site with basically every connector anyone could ever want but can't for the life of me remember what the site was....anyone know what site I'm thinking of?

I have a ducati TPS and Porsche throttle position that I know I need to find connectors for at the moment.

I just found this place for wire....I'm in wire color heaven!

https://www.prowireusa.com/default.aspx

We usually use aerospace type 2,3,4 conductor 22 awg shielded twisted pair for the vast majority of our wiring. It's Teflon jacketed and white in color. We use this for all sensors, signal wires to coils, fuel injectors and small solenoids (under 2a), and switch circuits for relays (starter relay from dash switch, main relay from key switch). Each pair wire is labeled, the wires in the pair are not individually labeled.

For thicker wire we usually use 18awg individual conductors, this is for coil power, stator/alternator wiring, fuel pump, etc.

We use smaller sizes than 'normal' because our car is really tiny and the lengths are all less than 5 ft. We've been gradually moving to smaller and smaller wire sizes recently, going as far as 8 AWG battery cables. Our power loads are also very small.

We use Deutsch DTM connectors a lot in the harness. We used to mix DT (13a) and DTM (7a), we use almost only DTM now but it's based on wire gauge. They sell this connector with a 'tail' on the end for you to heat-shrink to. We haven't found a great source for weird OEM connectors.

For a V12 you could probably make two identical half-harnesses for injectors/coils and combine it all into a power and signal connector for each harness.

We make a plywood board with screws for our harness. Last year we measured the lengths manually but this year we measured them in CAD.

You probably have a lot more IO than we do.

_________________
"Sometimes, the elegant implementation is a function. Not a method. Not a class. Not a framework. Just a function." ~ John Carmack

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" ~Arthur C. Clarke

He's better off making the wiring according to the assembly/disassembly order.

Example: The Cadillac Northstar mounts the starter under the intake manifold. The intake manifold does not carry coolant and is designed to unbolt in about 10 minutes. To facilitate this, GM included a production break in the harness that lets the maintainer disconnect everything on the manifold (8x injectors, MAP sensor, TPS) at one connector.

Considering how obscene the packaging situation is for his injectors and fuel rail, he's probably better off putting those on a sub-harness with a production break.

I am not entirely sure how he has assembled his engine, so I don't know if the fuel rail is hard mounted to the head or intake. But it would make sense to run a cable bundle down each bank with fuel injectors. It might be neater to include a pigtail out of that to coil-on-plug coils too (instead of a separate harness segment which stays with the head), depending on how they are mounted. We use remotely mounted coils and don't include them in the engine harness.

In general, OEM engine harnesses that I've seen usually end at a very large connector which plugs directly into the ECU, and a low pin count connector for power from the relays.

_________________
"Sometimes, the elegant implementation is a function. Not a method. Not a class. Not a framework. Just a function." ~ John Carmack

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" ~Arthur C. Clarke

digikey.com or are you looking more for automotive connectors?

Yes, the plan is an injector sub-harness with maybe a pair of these DTM connectors on the end where I can reach them:
https://www.prowireusa.com/p-456-deutsc ... y-kit.aspx




I like that wire as well. I have a heat shrink label marker for marking wires so all white or just the standard primary colors would be ok, but Pro wire USE has COLORS!.....about 90 options for 22g, 50 for 20g, 40 for 18g and 30ish for 16, 14, 12g so every signal can have it's own color. The only place I'll need the marker is on the shielded stuff where its white,take it or leave it.

If you get the -E007 variants of the plugs, they have an additional 'tail' on the end for heat shrink to grab the connector. The receptacles don't need this since all of the mating features are internal and you can heat shrink around the entire body of the connector.

If you want them more cheaply, we've bought Amphenol brand ATM series connectors (which are inter-mateable with Deutsch DTM) from Newark. However, they don't stock the Amphenol's equivalent to the -E007 variants so we are now buying Deutsch connectors from Prowire.

If you need a large pin count connector (such as a firewall pass-through), the best connector is a MIL-DTL-38999 type. The Deutsch type AS ('Autosport') is a variant of the 38999 series 2 (bayonet lock) and can intermate with a series 2 38999. The AS type connectors have a knurled ring on the end for heat shrink to grab, the real 38999's will have a thread for a backshell to connect (38999's are normally used in military and aerospace where 100% shield is required, even through the connector, so they have a metal backshell). If these are too expensive, Deutsch makes some round connectors (HD10,HD20,HD30), the HD10 and HD20's are plastic and cheaper.

If you need CAD models of the connectors, https://laddinc.com/ is where I usually go for that, go to the 'interactive product finder' to find the connector, then go to 'drawings' on the connector page and they have STEP files


Also, not sure what crimping tools you have, but we use the round nickel-plated solid connectors, not the stamped ones. These seem to work better for us.

We also make our own fuse/relay box out of a Deutsch EEC box, this is very compact and totally sealed. However, our loads are low enough that we can get away with ganging 2-4 DTM 7a pins for the high current lines, but you would probably need something higher current.

_________________
"Sometimes, the elegant implementation is a function. Not a method. Not a class. Not a framework. Just a function." ~ John Carmack

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" ~Arthur C. Clarke

MoTeC products are now officially on my "do not buy" list...the company is infested with lying assholes as far as I can tell.

I have my M150 on ebay and buyers are all trained to call before buying because any unit reported stolen will be killed the next itme it connects to the tuning software so best to call and check before buying. I have lost a couple sales that I know of because I got angry notes that the listing should be removed and the ECU is unusable. The first time I thought the guy was nuts, but the second guy started by saying he spoke to motec east and......

Apparently when potential buyers call the guy at motec east has been leading them to believe the unit is "blacklisted" because I modified it (then unmodified it which I was honest about in the listing) so it and can never be used again, much like a stolen unit. There's no such thing as a "black list" of course and they deny saying that, and agree that all anyone needs to do to use it is purchase a firmware license just like my ad says and they have no way of knowing anything at all is wrong with the unit....but I've heard a very similar story from 2 lost buyers now and I strongly suspect there are more I don't know about. They also apparently went off on the dealer I bought it from for letting me modify it as if he or they had any say in what I do with my property.

I explained my displeasure with their behavior yesterday and hopefully made it clear that the next time they speak to someone about this ECU they best choose their words carefully and stick to the facts so their are no further "misunderstandings" about the condition and status of this ECU.

This thing has done nothing but piss me off since I got it with the way everything is crippled is some way to force upgrades or additional purchases. Fucking MoTeC

The new battery cable came and installed fine.

The I remembered that way back before I parked the car I had to add spot leak to the radiator because the electric fan had flexed and rubbed a hole in one of the tubes....so radiator out. I found a surprisingly large hole and what a bugger a radiator tube is to weld! I mostly got it before Lana yelled "no welding!"...just a tiny pinhole left, I'll fix that quickly tonight hopefully.

When I assembled the trans and diff case I had forgotten to order new axle seals so I installed those and the axles are ready to go in next I guess. I need to actually put the bolts in the motor mounts too....maybe before the axles, I stopped and grabbed some SS bolts on the way to work this morning.

Last week I decided the water pump pulley wanted flathead bolts and those came Mondays so I did the countersinks and quickly found I way back when I was building all this I forgot to remove an unneeded fuel tank mount that is in the way.....lots and lots and lots of little things to finish up!

The mcmaster order came yesterday so I should have my acorn nuts and heater hose...I forget what else is in there

Maybe another week and I'll have oil and water in the engine. Then on to the intakes, throttles, fuel lines, etc, but that all requires I have the injector subharness made. I've moved the AEM pinout diagram into excel so I can edit it and added columns for wire color and gauge to help sort out what wire I need to order.

I love that I'm getting to the end but I hate the chaos with so many things on so many systems all at once.