gemellocattivo.com

HA! I won! without even having to resort to cutting it out on the mill, just a wee little bit of heat (aka glowing red bolt....., orange really) and it came right out. I had to order the new control arm was a couple days delay on finishing the bimmer......hopefully the jetta makes it to work Monday


on the wiring the V12

A little backwards to go forward to day. 8 years ago i started wiring in an M800 ECU under the dash and replacing the old fuse panel.......and 8 years later there is still the mess I left when I got distracted with a V12

So today out came the V8 with ECU under the dash wiring I'd started. I pulled instead of cutting because the wire's expensive and can be reused and I left pull strings anyplace I think I might need to run new wires.

Now I need to give a bit of thought to what wires I need where and start laying out.

Just boring wiring yesterday so no cool pics today or probably for the coming week or so

I was thinking about just how much wiring there is to do
coils = 48 wires+relayx2+ fuse x2
injectors = 24 wires+ relay+ fuse
TPSx2 = 6 wire
Throttle pedal x 2 = 6 wires
Throttle actuator = 2 wires + external driver+ realy+fuse
MAP = 3 wires
MAP per cylinder - 18 wires+ CAN AN expander
Baro = 3 wires
CLT = 2 wires
IAT = 2 wires
Fuel Temp = 2 wire
Fuel Pres = 3 wires
Fuel pump = 2 wires+relay+fuse
Coolant fan = 2 wires+ relay+ fuse
WBO2x2 = 18 wires+fuse+ external controllerx2
NBO2x4 = 16 wires+relay+fuse
Crank trigger - 2 wires
cam trigger = 2 wires
Front wheel speed x 2 = 6 wires
rear axle speed = 2 wires
Coolant gauge (feed by ECU) = 1 wire
ECU power and ground...12 wires

....almost 200 wires

Good luck with that!!!...Can't wait for start up"..Sterling work please keep updates coming,,,

Do you like single ended or double ended wire lists?

I'm just counting wires...so at least double on the connection. Some get splices which adds to wire count and all analog signals are getting shielded wire, but I'm running a lot of 2 and 3 conductor for the AN stuff so that helps

A little progress. I'm doing a rough out and will cover it once I have it the way I want it

I got scolded badly last night for working on wires when I told Honey Bunny I would actually watch little one shooting his bb gun

.....I was only 15 feet away but that wasn't good enough

What I was working on though is grounding. I'm not sure how crazy I want to get with this. On the old setup I just connected to the ground in the factor harness and called it a day....but I was pulling a lot more power than stock and I knew that was probably not the best setup but I did it anyway because it was easy.

Now I'm pulling more power again and thinking I really need a better grounding plan. I see instruction on some ECUs that call for stuff like "run THREE 16g wires DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY" which generally means they did a terrible job sorting out grounds in the ECU itself but that's not my concern. I'm concerned mainly with the very short injector pulses my huge injectors will be using and that controlling them means knowing exactly what voltage they are seeing.

OEMs usually do a "star" grounding setup with a big ground fanning out to main points on the engine and chassis and that is my general plan. It's obviously more work but I really don't want to be chasing mystery issues that poor grounding creates. I'm thinking I'll pick up 6-12 points around the engine bay and trunk as well as tying into the stock ground line and that should be about as good as it can be.

I also realized I hadn't really picked mounting locations for some stuff so I'm sorting though that so I know where to run the wires.

Then there is the ECU. I've spent some time using the engine simulator to create the base fuel and spark tuning. The fuel table is 3-d but the data I'm going to starting with is 2-d because I define load as MAP/baro *100 and VE as what the engine is doing compared to what is possible under current conditions.... and that should mostly collapse fuel to a 2-d item.....mostly so the table is still 3-d if I need it. So I pulled the VE numbers out of the simulator for WOT and filled in the table.....it if's close on estimated hp and I think it is, I'll be close on VE tuning. Then I set the mixture to 0.9 lambda (about 13:1 AFR) everywhere so I should have enough fuel everywhere but it shouldn't be too rich to run anywhere even is there 30% error in my VE guesses. I also set the injection end time to 360 so for now it ends about the time intake begins, not what I what long term for at least the full power fuel timing but this tends to be a stable safe starting point so good for now.

Then spark. I always like spark locked at idle and cranking...but I don't really know how much vacuum this engine is going to pull so I don't really know how to scale the spark. I'm guessing it will pull 8-10in/hg vacuum which is 25-35kPa vacuum, so I based the table on idle at 70kPa (100-30) and we'll see how that works. Its easy to just change the axis values once I see where it actually idles. And I'm also assuming that I can do idle control with the throttle...but I may end up needing to lock the throttle and use timing for idle control...another we'll see. simulator.

I was amazed how close the simulator was to the stock QV timing . QV is 32 degrees at high rpm....the sim is telling me 33 and I have a slightly bigger combustion chamber so it seemed right so for full power I pulled the numbers straight in as the base line. Ferrari didn't add really any addition advance under vacuum but I've always found it helps especially if the mixture is leanish under vacuum which I usually do so I through some more advance into the base table.

Then I added a tuning screen with pretty much ALL the gauges so I have a master panel to watch everything that's happening

Getting close now.

Mark, the star earthing system that the OEM's use is the best, because believe it or not, a steel chassis "does" have some electrical resistance, and if you tie sensitive earths to it in various places, you'll get various voltage drops, which can really screw around with the ECU's brains.

One or two main earths are best, which then go to an earthing busbar, then you can take all your other small earths off that busbar.