gemellocattivo.com

The pump is an aeromotive A1000, rated for 1000hp but I think that is at 44psi not 58 or 75. I forget the filter brand but its big and was speced to match the pump, plumbing is -10 to the rail, -8 to the regulator. Last week it took about 1 second to come to pressure.......I really think its just out of gas. The problem is though that my windows of time are short so there was no time for a trip to the gas station before I had to stop for the day. Now I need to get the regular out of the can by pouring it in the mower, but that is in the basement so I need to do it when Lana's not home to be bothered by the smell or I need to buy a new can. Nothing is simple in my world these days. Then there is the Honey-Do list which grows anytime I say I have time to work on the car......

I did the math on the coils back when I was wiring and settled on 2 20A circuits. Enginelab promised me firmware that would allow direct fire (the hardwer is capable after a minor alteration they talked me through) but I haven't pushed them since its not an issue at the moment.

The 3 white plugs confuses me though. The last set that came out were all 12 fouled about the same. the fist set had 6 fouled (1-3,10-12), 6 white 4-6, 7-12) but I found a popped fuse in the ignition and assumed I'd mis-wired and the coils were right/left instead of fron/back and sine the next set all looked the same I decide it was the fuse. 3 white plugs I can't really explain though and the O2 readigns I know I saw confuse me more. I had decided to fire it up for a minute or 2 then check plugs/pipes and go from there....until it wouldn't fire up and I found no fuel pressure.

......so back to needing to get some gas in it but I'll find time to confirm the spark is good and injectors click before trying again. It's very difficult to do this work 30-60 minutes a week

Going to snag some 116 from Sunoco?

Pure gasoline doesn't have as much of a tendency to gum fuel system components over a long time sitting as gasahol does.

No, just pump premium.....and hopefully it won't be sitting enough to have anything gum up

Because hope is a great course of action

Hmm, sounds like you might need to do a test fire check on each injector and coil, I'm assuming your ECU can do that. There goes one of your hr blocks though. I can really see a problem with 1hr intervals though... can your wife be plied with a trip to the spa for a day like mine is? It's about the only way I and the boys avoid a day of house labor and to-do lists... Sometimes I'll even suggest she go buy a new purse or shoes, that usually sucks up a 4~6hrs

Your fuel setup sounds good, some quick checking shows the A1000 to flow about the same as the Bosch 044 at 70psi and should draw ~17amps. What injectors are you using though?

The 4L build I went HUGE and use a -10AN feed to the rails and the rails are 3/4" stainless tube I really just did not want any fuel issues with the pressures having to be so high. There is also the slight but possible issue of the fuel pressure ramming as the injectors cycle and pulse in the rail, trying to recall what it's actually called but it's an issue on long rails and large injector flow rates. I'll dig up some reference papers on it. It's frequency based...

About 17A is exactly right....this pump popped a couple 15A fusses when I ran it on the blower engine. It's 20A now and that was fine.

The injectors are injector dynamics ID1000, which are a modified bosch motorsport injector but WAY better matched to eachother. I also use all the ID calibration data in GM format:
http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id1000/
So dead time, flow, short pusle correction are all tied to fuel pressure and self correct should pressure drop or change.

I have a single rail due to space (and yes its a pain in the ass to assemble with injectors in a V), but its -10 or -12....I forget but its big. and they are only 22" long I think so it's which is SBC size....and I'm just trying to get this to run which is 20hp not 900

I do not think the ECU has a test fire capability.....I don't think it does anyway......hmmmm I see both the injector drivers and coil drivers on the output list (coils are new to the list) so I could load a test program to fire them. I can't assign a single output to more than 1 function and the "engine" item grabs them which is why it would need to be a separate program....but its a short easy program to write and probably worth the effort. I need to request a "test" item then that tells the ECU it's synced and at whatever rpm but for now a test program it is I guess....or just hook it up to a signal generator.

Bosch EV14's I use them as well, since I'm also using the BMW TB's and BMW sets the pressure at 5bar so I went with that. At 5bar it's really hard to see the fuel spray at idle, seriously really hard it's so fine and atomized.

I'll dig up the fuel rail info I was talking about, I put a digital pressure sensor in the rail and monitor that to look for pulsation and feed that back to the fuel table as well. I sourced these from mouser, industrial sensor far cheaper then automotive sources and better too.
mfg: U7139-150PA-5W0000
mouser: 824-U7139-150PA-5W

You think you can cycle each output? simple on/off to test the coils and injector drivers? That's all the ECU does on my end, all i can do is turn them on/off to test the function of the circuit and component. Really helps in tracking issues.

$85! I paid $65
I'll find the source for you...my shop is a mess after the fire.. Looks like very similar specs.

Does your ECU correct both flow and dead time effects for pressure?

Th Bosch injector is not the same as the ID injectors, in fact Bosch buys from ID for race applications. The ID injectors hace a much narrower cone angle and the pintle is not prone to bounce like the Bosch units. And the match each other within a couple percent at EVERY duty cycle not just 100% like bosch quotes.

Boss, have you the Ferrari Porsche Hunter 312/512 book? It has the owners manual for 512.To Start,,First ,,remove plugs and tow 5 miles in 5th gear.You got way more tune than 1970 512M,think you need a block heater and start @ 180
I got accusump for pre oiler,I need block heater for ideal start conditions,
why no pre oiler on Gemellocattivo?

The goal of this project has always been an engine/car that looks and acts normal...... until the throttle is open.

First start with new engine is always a challenge, its harder when you also have a new ECU and harder yet when you have what I would call "alpha" level at best software in the ECU...and harder yet when I have no time to work on any of it. There is an awful lot to keep an eye on all at once....I just need some time to sort though what I'm seeing. Today I'll pick up some gas and confirm that is the fuel pressure issue and will also work on the ECU driver test software so I can test all the ECU output function and wiring. Then it will be time to fire it up again and see if I can keep it running a little longer next time. Step by step.......

I've never used pre-oilers. I know some people like them but I've never seen compelling data that syas they help so I just haven't bothered.