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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:19 am 
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11-29-2007
The fuel and ignition maps are 3 dimensional. There is a 2D table that is rpm v load that is then filled with value for fuel injector pulse time on the fuel map and ignition advance on the ignition map.

A 12x12 table is simply 12 rpm points on one axis and 12 load points on the other.

I think the minimum points requiredfor an 8000 rpm engine looks something like:
0
750
1000 (idle speed)
1250
1500
1750
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
4500
5000
6000
7000
8000

That gives good control of idle with points just above and just below, a good smooth ignition map, and a good fit to changes on the torque curve (which indicate a change in air flow and therefore fuel requirements). Less than 16 rpm points and I think you start making compromises to the driveability, and that’s no good.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:19 am 
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11-29-2007
I wondered how I'd gone this long without anyone asking this.

I was really hoping not to have to weld because the metal does change but I couldn't see any way around it. The block is heat treated and when the metal gets up to around 300 degree, you start to pull the hardness out. The weld zones will be dead soft.

My book's at work, but off the top of my head it loses about 40% of it's strength I think, which sounds pretty bad, but it's really not. Aluminum is a pretty flexly metal. Steel has a modulus of elasticity of 30Mpsi but aluminum is only 10Mpsi. Something like an engine block needs to be rigid so you end up adding metal or making the making the cross section bigger until the appropriate stiffness is achieved. All the things you do to make the part stiffer also make it stronger, generally much much stronger than required.

The other thing working in my favor is that the casting process requires some minimum wall thickness and the walls have to contain the cooling water so they have to go all the way around, again adding a lot more metal than actually required.

I had thought about re-heat treating the whole thing but was wisely cautioned against it. The reason being is that would cause every machined surface to move and require re-machining…but there isn’t any extra metal, so every machined surface would need to be welded up…that would be a mess.

There is some risk, but I’m pretty sure it will be just fine.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:20 am 
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11-29-2007
The stud and steel nut on top are 11mm dia and also 11mm long, which on steel should mean the bolt will break before the threads strip. So that’s good.

Down in the aluminum the diameter is 14mm and the length is 28mm giving about 3 times the bite in the aluminum....which is good, but I'm not convinced its enough to hold the bolt to failure with the reduced strength after welding. My plan is to simply put more threads on the studs, like 40% more to match the lose of material strength.

Now you went and ruined the big surprise


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:20 am 
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11-30-2007
That's right. A course thread has a smaller root or minimum diameter so there is more metal in the thread itself.

On the OEM stud the nut end is a M11-1.0 and the block end is a M14-1.5. A 1.5 has 50% more aluniumum in the thread than a 1.0 would. I should have included that in my quick calc...but I just forgot. I think (I have to go look it up) that a M14-1.5 is actually the metric standard fine thread and M14-2.0 is course. I could make that change too, it weakens the stud a bit, but in the 14mm section so it's realy not a concern.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:20 am 
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11-30-2007
I'll finally be ready to get started on that next week I'm hoping. I need to get the decks cleaned off and the head alignment pins in the block first so I know where the heads actually go. Then I’m ready for the timing chain issue....expect to see the welder out again.....


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 9:22 am 
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11-30-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artvonne View Post
You know, if you asked most machine shops, they wouldnt touch this with a 10 foot pole. You get heads welded and they dont heat treat them, why would you have to with a block? I never asked because I was waiting for someone else to do it


Most shops wouldn't touch it with a pole because they have a lot most sense then me. It would be best to heat-treat both heads and blocks, but the wrapping problem prevent it.

Quote:
Mark, you are truly an inspiration. But I would ask, what about internal stresses that could lead to cracking. If your not going to heat treat it, is there any way to guard against stress cracks? Shot peen or some other kind of stress relieving?


Stress relieving the block would pull all the heat treat that’s left anywhere out, and wrap everything just like re-hardening would do so I'm not going to do it. Honestly, I've just never run into any kind of problem on aluminum. Fatigue or strain cracking yes, but not stress from welding….so I’m hoping the trend continues.

Quote:
I find it all facinating what people can do to engines and get away with, welding cams and regrinding, welding cranks and regrinding, welding major castings, etc., and it holds together quite well for the most part. Heck, you even made a reference to cutting a connecting rod to change its length and welding on the small end. Yet in the aircraft field none of that would ever be allowed. You cant weld hardly anything on an airplane, and what you can weld needs a whole series of analyses done to prove its sound ie; x-rays, penetrant dyes, etc.. In fact the only two parts I know of that can be welded are the engine mount frame, and the exhaust system.

Mark, is your plan to modify the gearbox by welding rails to bolt the block to it as Goldman did? Also, have you thought of trying to shift the motor more to the left? If you sat the gearbox down in the chassis, I would think you could bring the transfer gear case over until its about up against the fender liner. Because I assume your going with some kind of crank fire ignition, you wont have the added length of the dizzys holding you from shifting to the left a bit more. But then I suppose the input shaft would become a bigger issue? You also mentioned something about changing the gear ratio in the transfer gears, and lowering the engine, or moving it further forward? Could you explain further???


Airplanes are different, they are like the medical devices I build in my day life, you have to prove that everything works, the process is in control and there are no tolerance or other variability issues that may cause a problem now or in the future. When a car engine stops running no ones life it in danger, that changes things quite a bit.

Believe it or not, I only weld as a last resort and I see no reason to weld the rails to the gearbox....at this point in the project anyway. I do need to cut and weld to the pan section on the right side but then I'd like to bolt the rails on.

I'm on the fence about direct-fire ignition but will probably do it in some form. I am moving the engine further to the left then he did I'm pretty sure which means shortening up the clutch/flywheel stuff I guess.

I've honestly only thought about it in a conceptual sort of way at this point…I looked at it in the car for a couple days, said “yup” and went on my way prepping the engine. Once the heads are on the engine it will go back in the car for a more serious look and I’ll finalize the plans. Right now I now the engine hits the frame if I go past “x” to the left (although I may cut the back of the block) and hits the shock tower if I go past “y” to the right and x and y are 1” apart without cutting the block.

I’m planning to do my input gear a bit different than goldsmith did. I’m going to add a bearing in the transfer cover for additional support. I’m hoping to also put the existing bearing back in it’s original location to keep the input shaft supported the way it was designed to be supported.

For the gear ratio, I am planning to install the trans input gear up on the clutch shaft and the clutch gear down on the tran. That will change the ratio by 23% putting 1st gear about ¾ of the way to the current 2nd gear and raising the top speed at redline to about 180 mph. I think this engine will have as much or more torque as the supercharged v8 and 1st gear was just useless with that much torque. This should be a nice set-up.

The plan is to cut hubs of the gears out and a new larger ID spline pattern into them on the wire EDM. Then bolt them on to new hubs that fit the splines, off-sets and bearing for there new homes. That will mean moving the idler gear, so if there is also an opportunity to lower the engine a bit, it won’t really be a lot more work if there is a significant gain….and I don’t think there is after having a good look at it.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2015 10:02 am 
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temp


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 1:17 pm 
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11-30-2007
You're right that the car would definitely want to go faster than 180 with the hp it will have. The problem is that without making new gear sets or adding a 6th gear somehow I get stuck with a 1st gear that is just too high around town or a top gear that is too low for peak performance. I just don’t see any easy way to fix it.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 1:17 pm 
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11-30-2007

Doh!

You know, I know better than to weld without a jig or at least clamping it down to the welding table (mine is 1 1/4" think steel with 1/2-13 bolts hole ever 3") but I didn't do it.

The next one is going to come out so much better.....


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 1:18 pm 
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11-30-2007
Today’s adventures

A couple more emails with the VEMS ecu guy and that looks like a done deal. It does quite a bit more than can easily be found on their web site and for the price it’s a heck of a bargain.

I confirmed that M14-2 is standard metric course and got taps order. That will add a good amount of strength to the threads over the stock M14-1.5 in the now softer than stock block. Of course this means I’m making my own head studs….since I have so much time on my hands and all…..

After a little digging, I think 4150 chrome-moly steel is what I’ll go with for the new studs unless someone has another suggestion???

Tomorrow – WELDING.


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