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Some years ago when I was at the Ferrari factory we toured the production line.

There were a number of stations to install various different components.

Each station had only the tools needed for their job except that all the stations had identical hammers.

You all know I'd have to look at exactly what having the cams not at my "perfect" location means....and the answer is not much.

The top graph is where I set (103/109) vs where I planned(102/110). A little mid-range loss

The middle is at the spec limits (104/108)....a little more mid-range loss but but basically no change up top

The bottom is going 101/108. This is better for holding up the mid-range but the top is starting to lose and loses a little more at 101/110

So I'm happy with where the cams are. I think the exhaust range of 108-110 looks pretty good. The intake.....102-104 hold the peak hp up but 101-103 is a bit better where I will actually be driving so I probably should make that the spec.

I'll try to get the cam covers on this week and be on to the drop gear case by the weekend.

Nice!

20 years ago I visited the Ferrari and Lamborghini factories. The major difference was that they had bigger hammers at Sant'Agata. And they seemed to use them a lot more often.

I had a new thought on this today. In the short term it doesn't much matter if baro changes move the load % around so better to fire it up on MAP which is easier. Then I can map out the TPS vs MAP relationship on the running engine, then use that info to convert over to TPS for the final tuning. This will make 1st fire go a lot smoother I think.

also GT parts say they have all the bits I asked for and will get them shipped.

Also Lana asked me if the next time I was ordering from McMaster to get her some stronger magnets for her board in the kitchen. No problem I got her 1/2 x 1/4 nickel plate neodymium with a 7lb pull strength thinking the board is a magnetic chalk board so it probably needs all the help it can get. The order just arrive......I can't get the damn things of the board! if you hold 1 over the other on the table they jump together form nearly 2" away. And they were $6.50 EACH....I think she's going to be mad!

...but her stuffs' not going to fall off the board any more!

Cam covers on.

On to the chain covers.

Bad idea. I'm waiting on o-rings that go in the sprocket bolts and parts to fix the chain tensioner....best to leave these covers off until everything is done.

So on to the drop gear case which is the last remain item I'd consider major and I have 20 hours planned for it....I think the 1st hour will be burned trying to remember where I left off.

As a re-fresh the V12 is longer than the V8 so the ends both stick out a bit. No real problem on the engine front, but at the flywheel the whole drop gear stuff becomes a mess. Using a hydraulic throw-out bearing and custom flywheel and then a matching shorter clutch shaft I was able to save about 1" but the rest had to come the hard way....cut and weld.

Since I was cutting and welding anyway this was the point I decide it was a good idea to also rotate the the drp gear case to allow the engine to sit about 3" forward and 2" lower than the V8 because the narrow 60 degree V gave me lots of room to the firewall and I planned to dry-sump it anyway so shortening the pan was not an issue....you know, since I was already cutting and welding.

I also needed to extend the trans shaft. Making a whole new one is a huge job so I decided to follow the Goldsmith lead and just extend the gear out. Now while he welded the gear to the hud and I heard had some issues with that setup, I designed a bolt together setup (that may or may not explode).

Now, on the blower engine with 450ish ft-lbs torque I found 1st gear pretty much useless and the V12 is supposed to make over 500 ft-lbs. So, as long as I was messing with the trans gear and clutch shaft I decided it would be a good idea to swap the the 2 gears and put the trans gear on the clutch and the clutch gear on the trans. This is good for a 23% change in drive ratio and puts 1st gear almost to where the stock 2nd gear was.

Great!...no wait.... that means the idler gear is in the wrong place so that has to move too, but whats a little more cutting and welding right?

It looks like I left off with a new boss welded in the the bellhousing/drop gear case and the center located but it needs to be machined for the bearing.

I also decided to add an outboard bearing to the trans gear so the cover needs bosses for both the idler and trans gears. I also looks like I left the trans gear hub oversized a few thou so that needs to be finished.

The 1st day of spring is exactly 2 months away

An item I really haven't discussed at all is the torque arm that's on the top of 308 engines and goes to the frame....I'm not sure what I want to do about that and really the motor mount too.

308 motor mounts have springs in them along with the rubber to let the relatively rough running flat crank V8 bounce up and down then the torque arm prevents it from trying to rotate around the axle to the limit of the mounts. A V12 doesn't bounce to begin with so it really doesn't need extra fancy mounts, just a little rubber to stop vibration should be all it needs.


On the Goldsmith conversion he moved the torque arm to the back or the trans reasoning it was the same distance from the crank centerline then had difficulty shifting at the track and swapped the 2 front motor mounts to dayona mounts which solved the problem. Now the reason he had the problem in the 1st place is the distance to the crank centerline is irrelevant because no torque leaves the eng/trans assemble from there. The point of interest is the axle centerline and when he moved the torque arm to the back of the trans he made the distance to the axle centerline about 6" instead of the 24+" it was intended to be so his engine moved a lot more than it should have....until he installed the dayona mounts which effectively replaces the torque arm.

I've been kind of thinking I'd just install the torque arm on top of the engine like the 308 had but I really haven't designed anything yet and I'm pretty sure at this point the only thing inside my motor mounts is black goo anyway......something to ponder a bit.

I'm thinking I'll want to get the brake and clutch lines in before the engine goes in. The new master is on order for the brakes but I need to do something for an e-brake since the f430 calipers don't have anything....so I'm going to cheat and add a drifting brake.

I just ordered a simple setup that I can either fit the stock 308 handle too or at least steal parts to use with the 308 handle to give it a stock look.

I still need to figure out the clutch master and throttle pedal sensor to make my DBW throttle work.

I bought a porsche cable operated DBW pedal assembly thinking there is probably an easy way to connect it to my stock pedal....we'll see.