gemellocattivo.com

The vortex thing looks like nonsense. For sure it creates a flow restriction.....I can't see anything else it does?

On the header layout I'm not sure if a 6-3-1 has any advantages over a 6-2-1? It is a bit heavier but either way what you are getting over a 6-1 is better collector ID and additional tuned lengths. I would need to play with it on the simulator to see if 6-2-1 beats 6-3-1....I'm skeptical but ill look at it if I escape being trapped in AZ and make it back to PA.....it rained so flight canceled.

Well.....I almost bought a motorcycle. I took my son to a track day with his and it physically pained me to stand and watch. When we got home he was talking about racing in the spring and that was too much so I started looking at what it would cost to join him and class rules and such. There is a special class for 40 and up...and I just turned 60 Luckily the one I was eying we couldn't agree on price so back to the ferrari.

I have the bottom end all over the bench so I decided to finish that so its off the bench before the heads. I think I mentioned I don't love the way the bearings look so I ordered new....at least I think I did, I haven't seen the bill yet but sometimes they wait until its packed to get the shipping. Remember I cleaned out the crank last time but I didn't polish the journals at all so and for whatever reason the bottom side so all the rod journals was a little rough but it mics fine so a quick light polish so I know there is nothing rough and new bearings.

Then rings...they are quite a bit more expensive then they were in 2019. Last time I talked myself into the totalseal with a gapless 2nd because the bores are about 0.002 over so the ring gaps are like 0.018 when they should be 0.015. Last time they were $36/set, now they are $59/set. JE rings that were I think $25 are now $38 but I have 2 sets so $380 for 10 more instead of $708 for the gapless it is. I was worried about low rpm before but now I know there is no issue so I figured no need to spend more.

I need to see what stones I have for my hone to deglaze the cylinder and get everyht5ing clean while I wait.

The rings are here but the bearings delayed.....I never got a bill so I called and was told they were out of a couple shells, more are due this coming week but he couldn't bill me yet because he has no idea what they'll cost (tariffs).

Today I decide to do important work. I started getting the car ready to take pics so I can apply of an antique plate so I won't need inspections any more. The car was a mess so wide it down, it need top on and windows up for what ever reason....hmmm..,..my new push button ignition comes on then right off....ahh, dead . Charger on....0 current draw? but the ignition comes on and window go up but the drives side doesn't go down??? forget it, tomorrow problem.

Load test the battery, 0V so its shot. but strange. it show fully charged no load, 0 volt with load.....something broken inside I guess? Oh! I see amazon has a 16lb Lithium group 24 that should work for $296....prices have really come down! They call it group 24 but it measures 10.23 x 6.77 x 7.99 which is small for a G24 and almost exactly group34 size which is what I have now but I guess if meets the G24 output specs so higher output with 1100 CCA vs 800 I currently have. There is a G47 that is a little smaller, 11lbs but only 600CCA which is maybe on the low side for my setup so i decide to not risk it. That will be 20ish lbs weight saving.

I'm a little worried about the charging system, it says 14.2-14.6 is ideal but I'm pretty sure mine is 13.8 but I think there are higher voltage options...need to look. I guess it needs a special charger for the shop to, $50 for that.

Dropped off the paperwork to get an antique registration with in PA means its registered for life and no more inspections. And also requested a custom plate

Very small progress....I ordered a new higher voltage set point regulator that should change the new Li battery properly form this place for $26:
https://www.prancingmoose.com/AdjustableVoltage.html

They have lots of options. I when with a fixed internal regulator with a 14.8V set point for $26 which should net about 14.5 system voltage but they also have an adjustable option and conversions for external regulators fix or adjustable.

Its getting harder and harder to keep this forum working and clean. Pretty much every time I log on I delete a dozen BS registrations and more and more I get errors logging in because there are too many users which are bots or AIs not actual users.

Anyway. Still waiting to here on the bearing. I got a little distracted when a buddy ask if a more modern V12 would fit.....I suspect if would. As much as I would love to do the project I suggested he wait until spring and drive mine before deciding.

I ordered a 5/8" mastercylinder for the rear. Right now I have 5/8 & 0.70 with the balance bar centered but will switch to 5/8 & 5/8 with the balance bar offset to give the same ratio which should reduce the pedal force about 10%. not important right now but there was a gently used one on ebay for $60 and they sent an other for $50....New is about 85-90 so I felt like I had to buy it.

The battery came today....weirdly light to pick up, my brain sees a battery but nope, its not heavy. It has a built in volt meter and talks about storing at x% charge or bring to 100% every 6 months and such abut nowhere does it tell me what voltage is what % so the instruction are basically worthless. And got a new charger and work with it and it tells me all kinds of stuff....that I have no idea what it means or why I care which just makes me feel old and ignorant. But the battery is light.

1st post but long time listener (ok....viewer). The amount of knowledge and skill that have gone into creating this work of art astounding. It truly is a work of art and that makes you pretty close to the Michelangelo of the car world. I've discovered a lot of little things that I would've never though of before while reading through the build thread and have applied some of them to my current builds. Thanks for the effort of not just doing the work but documenting the work for those of use who find this type of stuff electrifying!

Glad to you're enjoy it and thankyou for the kind words. Your posts should pop right up now.

LiFePO4 Batteries!

Hey Mark! A couple years ago I inherited my Dad's 1986 Club Car with 36v lead acid batteries. I hopped it up with lift kit and big wheels and handbuilt some light pods and such... BUT... I put 4 of those batteries in series with a new 600w controller and even the stock 36v motors runs like a banshee and gets me 25 mph (which is scary...). And the totally battery weight is reduced by over 190 pounds.

As long as those batteries have a 200a continuous output (which many do not) they work great in golf cart applications here in Florida. Wasn;t aware they were making them to replace starting batteries, but progress is continous I guess!

Florida? You've move a long way away!

Antigravity brand has been selling car batteries for several years but they are around $1000. this is the first I've seen normal price options which is why I grabbed it. Hopefully I don't regret the choice since its a no-name whatever.

Kind of boring stuff.  Google helped me convert voltage to % charge



The clean the wire ends didn't go well



But all well in the end



This is kind of funny.  I've had this car for 25 years and a few months now and I've had the ground off the battery dozens of times for storage or working on whatever..... but today i realized there is a disconnect that works perfectly..... DOH!



And the driver's window that wouldn't go down was just a pin popped out of a connector,  easy