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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
It is currently Wed Jul 17, 2019 1:04 am

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 6:21 am 
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Well, that was expected. It looks like the end cylinders are steam cleaned, coolant maybe?
How much press fit did you have on the seats? I know this one was the wrong size.
So, piston, valves, welding and new seats. You should have that done by lunch.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:25 am 
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The seats are still in place....mostly. It looks like the intake valve is where it started. I'll have to check the notes but I'm remembering something odd when I was leak checking the valve after I fixed the coolant leak....like this cylinder wasn't good, a quick tap on the valve to let them come down on the seats and all was well....in hide sight kind of like the valve was hanging. The engine was quite when it first started, then I started to hear what sounded like valve noise....it may have pinged the valve. I was rushing last night so I'll take a better look and try to dig through whatever notes I can find.

I think the end 2 where not running at first....I'm remembering a spark problem?

But this time it going on a run stand so I can look at everything closer. This is going to take a while to fix. Hope the Rod is ok....


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:14 pm 
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I thought it looked like the seats were still there. I hope the rod is good as well. I have no doubt you will get it sorted out.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:26 pm 
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I think the intake stuck and smashed everything.

I also think I'll cut out and replace all the exhaust seats so that risk is out of my mind.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 4:03 pm 
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Use the TIG torch and weld the exhaust. As they cool they will fall out and you can put the same seat back in without cutting anything.
I have used this method many times.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 8:22 am 
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I've popped then 2 ways. One is to just weld and let them shrink as you say, sometimes with an old valve in behind to tap it out if needed. Very easy as you say and seems to leave the hole nice....but I've always seen afraid the hot seat could stretch the whole, not that I've ever seen it happen, so a couple times I either cut a lot of seat way to make it thin then welded or cut 3 or 4 grooves leaving a thin section so I sdon't touch the head and weld across the grooves so I need way less total heat....but I never had any problem doing it the just weld method.....probably what I should do.

I just realized that months ago lent my very VERY old valve spring compressor to a guy at work I talk to at lunch sometimes.....but we've been reorganizing and I've not seen him or his girlfriend (I assume)since before Christmas when the reorgs began. I need to get a new valve spring compressor. The one I had was an old version of this:
Attachment:
large spring compressorCapture.JPG
large spring compressorCapture.JPG [ 41.54 KiB | Viewed 1250 times ]


and it was kind of a pain in the butt to use on my tiny little valves. So I'm thinking the smaller cheaper design might actually be better...and it looks like free delivery by the 3/17...that's Sunday which depending how much Lana work there is to do this weekend (it spring again! so yard work and yesterday garage doors went on sale so 2 more more doors ordered, that will mean lighting choices finalized and installed before they arrive) is about when I'll want it...done.
Attachment:
small spring compressorCapture.JPG
small spring compressorCapture.JPG [ 63.14 KiB | Viewed 1250 times ]


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 6:04 am 
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mk e wrote:
I've popped then 2 ways. One is to just weld and let them shrink as you say, sometimes with an old valve in behind to tap it out if needed. Very easy as you say and seems to leave the hole nice....but I've always seen afraid the hot seat could stretch the whole, not that I've ever seen it happen, so a couple times I either cut a lot of seat way to make it thin then welded or cut 3 or 4 grooves leaving a thin section so I sdon't touch the head and weld across the grooves so I need way less total heat....but I never had any problem doing it the just weld method.....probably what I should do.

I just realized that months ago lent my very VERY old valve spring compressor to a guy at work I talk to at lunch sometimes.....but we've been reorganizing and I've not seen him or his girlfriend (I assume)since before Christmas when the reorgs began. I need to get a new valve spring compressor. The one I had was an old version of this:
Attachment:
large spring compressorCapture.JPG


and it was kind of a pain in the butt to use on my tiny little valves. So I'm thinking the smaller cheaper design might actually be better...and it looks like free delivery by the 3/17...that's Sunday which depending how much Lana work there is to do this weekend (it spring again! so yard work and yesterday garage doors went on sale so 2 more more doors ordered, that will mean lighting choices finalized and installed before they arrive) is about when I'll want it...done.
Attachment:
small spring compressorCapture.JPG


I bought one like that and modified it to be the length I needed. i like it a lot. I have the same lever style in the picture too. Don't like it at all.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 10:10 am 
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mk e wrote:
And a bit of corrosion on the engine that will need to be tended to


Clearcoat *ALL* the things!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 4:59 pm 
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mk e wrote:
There is that. I was mostly just thinking it would look great but decided the wheel would be getting way too close to my oil return pump for comfort to be worth the risk. There are some really sticky 285/295 options that are probably capable of breaking stuff in the trans for me without also risky tearing off the oil pump :)


mk e wrote:
cribbj wrote:

The 315's really do look good on the Supra.....


You're not helping ;)


I can post a picture of the Fiero with 285/30-18's on the back. I'm working on how to go to 315's.

Also: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.js ... 3WR8GFRSV2

It has 200 treadwear... :shock: it's a street tire ;)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 5:07 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
mk e wrote:

I can post a picture of the Fiero with 285/30-18's on the back. I'm working on how to go to 315's.

Also: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.js ... 3WR8GFRSV2

It has 200 treadwear... :shock: it's a street tire ;)


I have 285s now so I know good.....315 means moving the shocks again, new inner wheel wells and they will be CLOSE to the oil return pump.... lose like less than 1/2", maybe 1/4" unless I'm willing to do something to the fenders.

.....I dont know.......


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