gemellocattivo.com

Hello,when I got my GTC in 79 the motore was smooth,good power.I got a rod in tick racing a mc up 24th st from Lamar,steep long hill,lotsa load..Did a R&R,Im factory trained Alfa Romeo.2 Cams are tricky to time,ie lots of tricks,one of our customers was phd Italian and he translated the manual.On correct cam time the motore was very nervous and wicked revin.I could feel it going flat in 500miles and by 1000miles I had to retime for viciousness.Then I got a 400A,crazy to time perfect,and it would start to go flat after 3,5 drags.The chain stretch was stupid.Later I ran a 400i from Cali back to Austin,ran ok when I started out,I run I 10 hard,when I got it home it would barely start,so retime for owner/buddy,,he kept under 5000,but I could never get the exhaust smoke to be identical L/R bank,,,,,,330 2 cam, race engine,,400 no race engine. I have more stories because 400 are cheap and I know the reasons.Butcher,you can do anything so I suggest that you put in 365GTB/4 cam drive,the 400 cam drive is junk.I turned down a 400i rebuild yrs ago,Benz Werkshop did the motore,I inspected progress, and nearing completion it was locked up both ways,when it finally came in for paint it blew dark black left bank,pure white right bank.rege

Boss, ,Please go 365GTB/4 gear drive, gear off crank to 2 idler gear /chain drive. 2 short chains,365GTB/4 chains are really SHORT!
I want to buy mk e gemelcattivo when I sell my 95ac Colorado River ranch across the street from lostpineshyatt .
Borglums Eagles Nest Ranch

Gawd that is a funny comment.

You could have told me about the chains that 8 years ago!!!!

I'm probably not going to do a major change like a new timing setup as this stage of the project unless something horrible happens.

In all those simulations I ran a few were part of a sensitivity analysis and I found while I liked the intake cam at 102 ICA (Intake Center Angle) I didn't really like what I saw when it was at 100 the top end was starting to collapse....but 104 helps top end with only a mild performance change down low so I changed my nominal to 103+/-1. The exhaust side is less sensitive 108-112 is pretty good, I set nominal at 110.

Last night I pulled the second head off and pored alcohol down all the ports in both heads (other the the rear exhausts which have obviously bent valves). Most were dry or nearly dry, 3 intakes on the rear hear leaked a little and I did ID a suspect intake on cylinder 7 which explains the leak on the lead-down test but I didn't find any exhaust issues....I'm wondering if I was on the wrong cylinder when I thought I saw a leak there. ...hmmmm....I need to pop a couple of those out and see what's going on with them.

My thought at the moment is to make a leak-down plate I can bolt to the head and pressure check the valves before the head goes on the engine. I need to make something to check the coolant system better too so there are no surprises or second guessing later there either.

i just pulled the cam caps on my old 400s and fudged the retime.On 330 I popped the covers,adj da valves,really put a tune ON,i used dial indicators,the whole works....i just cant see that long chain lasting,needs a 2cd bank tensioner @ least and your never makin LeMans 24hr w/ anything less than 365GTB/4 cam drive.I know its very difficult to load the 400 timing case,WAY harder than sohc,and that aint a picnic.,,gas mileage on C/4 400 is stupid because they lose time every rev.,,Sad tonite,,,,saw BullFighter video,God Bless BullFighter,regga

Ouch........you sure didn't need that little speed bump..... As Wade said, we're all pulling for you.

Years ago when I used to race I wold do the really stupid stuff with the sawing and welding (I even cut and welded connecting rods once) then my buddy who is WAY more detail oriented would actually do the final assembly and that worked out pretty well. He's going to try to make it down for dyno testing to keep an eye on me, but in the mean time I need to start being a lot more careful on my own

The head gaskets are made and shipped according to an email that popped in yesterday. Also yesterday the aluminum and rubber I ordered to make the leak and leak-down fixtures arrived so I can get rolling on that stuff today but I do want to pop out a couple (or maybe all because I'm being more careful) of the questionable intake valves to check them for straightness before I place a valve order.

Maybe 3 weeks and I should be reassembling and prepping for the dyno.

I played with valves a bit today.

rear head intakes are fine it looks like. I still have 3 cylinders to check it looks like the reason the other 3 leaks alcohol is there was some dirt, probably from the intake down in the seat.

The front head was another story. The 2 intakes in the cylinder that leaked badly are trash and 4 or the other 5 cylinders had tweaked intakes but I was able to straighten them. Then 1 or the 2 cylinders I checked had tweaked exhausts which also straightened easily.

It looks like I need to order 14 valves in the morning and finish checking/straightening the rest before moving on to leak testing the heads. What I mess I made but it's easy enough to fix I guess.

I've never welded a connecting rod, BUT

We built our first turbocharger system for a snowmobile engine in one weekend. We came in saturday morning with a turbo, and made all of the intake/exhaust/oil parts and had it running that night, then spent all day sunday on the engine dyno.

Part of this required an oil drain to the engine sump. However, the engine is a one-piece dry sump (with the main oil tank high up on the intake side of the engine, higher than the turbo). So, we had to drain the turbo oil to the crankcase sump. The engine doesn't have a traditional oil pan. We decided the best place to go was into the stator cover, which is part of the side panel. The engine mount bolts go into the side panel, and the engine was already mounted and connected on the dyno, and we didn't really want to take it all off, so....

We decided to carefully drill a hole in the cover, in place, and tap it for a 1/2" NPT pipe fitting for the oil drain, without removing it from the engine. It worked very well and that engine survived until it's next rebuild (we go through ~4 pistons/year on a 2 cylinder engine due to knock).

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"Sometimes, the elegant implementation is a function. Not a method. Not a class. Not a framework. Just a function." ~ John Carmack

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" ~Arthur C. Clarke

there you go!

I'm going to try hard to not act like me for the next month and proceed carefully and meticulously and write everything down so I know exactly what I measured and what I didn't.

I've been pressed for time this past week though.....hopefully in the shop tomorrow or Saturday.