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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 9:49 am 
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oz756c wrote:
Looks good!

A few pages back you mentioned you would have a buddy do the final engine assembly and quality checks?


I USED to have a buddy doing all the really important final checks and assembly back when I was racing which was very helpful because I absolutely suck at paying attention to lots and lots of details. But that was then and Ilive about 5 hours drive away so I'm on my owen.....so I need to stop sucking at paying attention, at least for a few weeks.

On the other side of the coin, not really thinking about just how hard it will be to sort out all the details and everything that could and probably will go wrong is what makes projects like this possible :)


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 3:37 pm 
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Glad you are back at it , great perseverance .


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2016 3:44 pm 
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duck.co.za wrote:
Glad you are back at it , great perseverance .


A lot of side tracks lately.....this weekends was moving the ceiling light in the kitchen to where Lana moved the table.....god forbid we should just put the table where the light was :?

Back to heads tonight.....I hope.

How's your car doing Dave?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 12:01 pm 
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I got about 3 hours in the shop yesterday and was able to do the final cleanup on head 1 intake ports and re-leak check it - all good.

Then I moved on to head and and cleaned it up and leak checked...yup it leaks! I fixed the 2 largest leaks. For sure there is a 3rd smaller leak I'll do next. What I've been doing is listening to find the big one so I go big to small silencing the sounds. Then when I don't hear anything I hose it with soap and look for bubble indicating tiny leaks (big leaks just blow the soap away and don't really make bubbles). A couple more hours and it should be tight.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:56 pm 
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All right. Head 2 has been welded, the welds cleaned and does not leak at 60psi.

For your viewing enjoyment here's what turned out to be the worst.....it was sealed at 40psi but started leaking at 50 and fell apart when I hit it with the grinder and got about teice as big when I put the torch to it. But it's sealed now. On to machining


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 3:27 am 
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Good work :). 60 psi is pretty damn high!

Hopefully minimal machining. I assume to ensure all is straight again after the rewelding.
Pete


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 12:48 pm 
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You can get a lot more pressure than you'd think. The cap is 15psi, then if you close the throttle at high rpm you can pull 10 or 12 psi vacuum.....so theat's 25 or 27 psi. Then the water pump is on the inlet to the block and the thermostat on the output so the pump can dead-head.....so another 15-20psi probably. And 60 seemed a good number.

The machining is just to re-ut the seated afer the guides are rei-installed. Guides never sit exactly the same way after in/out and I discovered the intake seats were a little small anyway so I'm re-cutting them. Not a lot of work.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 7:01 pm 
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Guide holes reamed and guides back in. Ready to cut the seats.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 8:07 pm 
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All this grinding/patching/welding/machining (no peculiar order) make the whole thing more brittle?
When the whole engine finally lights up, and warm up as a whole unit, will all these '' patches'' hold up to the stress?
Can't wait to see final result Mark.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 10:00 am 
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Well......it probably doesn't help to have patches everywhere. fingers crossed I guess :?


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