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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 11:45 pm 
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cribbj wrote:
Wow, haven't checked progress for a few days and was stunned to see what happened! Sympathies to you in the coming days with your wife :(

I hate hindsight because the screwups are so obvious..... and it takes a brave guy like Mark to put them up here for all to see and critique :)

One of the best tuners I've ever worked with was Mitch Pederson of AEM, and when he came out to give me a hand with one of my supercharged Lexus V8's on the dyno, I was amazed at how methodical his checks were before we fired the engine the first time. Before turning the fuel pumps on, he dry fired each injector to ensure it "clicked" right, and in the correct firing order. Then he pressurised up the fuel rails, turned the fuel off, and made sure none leaked.

Then we pulled all the coils and fired each coil/plug (we were running COP's) to ensure each one was sparking and in the correct firing order. He fired both injectors and coils at an artificially low RPM, using a simulator, so it was easy to visually follow the firing order.

He then checked all the input sensors to ensure they were reading correctly, calibrated the TPS and WBO2 sensors (the WBO2 was way off, BTW).

Then he made sure that both the crank & cam pickups were generating the right signals and with the right polarity (he had a toothed wheel on a mandrel that we chucked into an electric drill)

In retrospect, he was simply following the correct commissioning procedure that one would do for any expensive piece of equipment (like a gas turbine, etc.), prior to running it for the first time.

Correct Commander
FORZA Macelliao,,
Mace EE AL EE o


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:49 am 
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There's a lot of talk about a detached shop lately....

I see summit has a battery powered timing light, I think I need that as is a pain in the butt to have the battery in front and engine in the back when the timing light needs both.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 9:23 am 
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mk e wrote:
There's a lot of talk about a detached shop lately....



Let's guess who came up with that idea :) Or was it more of a mandate than an idea?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:53 am 
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cribbj wrote:
mk e wrote:
There's a lot of talk about a detached shop lately....



Let's guess who came up with that idea :) Or was it more of a mandate than an idea?


It's a game we play. You must do this!!!!....with no budget. :o

Not sure how exactly work will continue. Its frikin cold out this week and it needs to be outside to run.....plus cleaning will continue at least through the weekend.

I ordered a new timing light.
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDispl ... Ala88P8HAQ

The best I can tell the Electronic Specialties 130 is the original battery timing light and everyone likes it so that is what I bought. Then everyone else sells a version of a Chinese copy that is a little sketchy...its super cheaply made and they added a flashlight feature so neither the timing or flashlight bulbs are centered and the beams come out at odd angles and it just sucks to use.

The big question I had was the lead length. Standard is 4' but you can get 10', 20, 30, 40, 50 also.....but I found the 4' one at tooldiscounter for $63 (its $83 at amazon) so 4' it is which should be fine.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 10:49 am 
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soviet wrote:
The 180% VE could mean a lot of things
- Incorrect injector data
- Its cold
- Some adder is not working correctly
- ???


It looks like I found why the 180 VE.....I misunderstood how the EngineLab speed-density function treats VE and was wrongly multiplying by MAP/100.....but that is already in the S-D function so it was happening twice. But I think it's still pretty unhappy about being cold.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 3:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2015 1:27 am
Posts: 166
mk e wrote:
soviet wrote:
The 180% VE could mean a lot of things
- Incorrect injector data
- Its cold
- Some adder is not working correctly
- ???


It looks like I found why the 180 VE.....I misunderstood how the EngineLab speed-density function treats VE and was wrongly multiplying by MAP/100.....but that is already in the S-D function so it was happening twice. But I think it's still pretty unhappy about being cold.



Just add glowplugs :lol:

even better, pre heated oil & coolant circulation just like F1 :D

I hate cold weather engine testing, the few times I've been up at Nicks in the colder months it's major PITA for engine base line starts. However I'll conceded that we did expand the shop by another 6k sq/ft and added in central heating and ventilation so it doesn't drop below 65*F indoors now. Always fun though when you get to the first stop outside at the end of the road and it's below freezing out and the engine stumbles a bit. I recall one trip back to the shop after a day on the dyno it was so cold the trans oil wouldn't get about 80F and I had to block off the air vents to keep the engine warm! it ran so RICH it was comical. These are NOT cold weather vehicles at all, cold weather being below freezing. Look at the body it was designed to shed heat and that makes cold weather running a PITA.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 4:29 pm 
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I may see if lana will allow a heater to be added to our garage or buy a portable so i can have it warm then open the door, ROLL OUT and give it a go then roll back in. Once its running and starting right it will be easy to move garage to shop. We'll see if that will fly.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 1:12 pm
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mk e wrote:
soviet wrote:
The 180% VE could mean a lot of things
- Incorrect injector data
- Its cold
- Some adder is not working correctly
- ???


It looks like I found why the 180 VE.....I misunderstood how the EngineLab speed-density function treats VE and was wrongly multiplying by MAP/100.....but that is already in the S-D function so it was happening twice. But I think it's still pretty unhappy about being cold.


Huh?? :?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:15 pm 
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Posts: 166
from experience before central heating was put in, I used infrared quartz heaters, doesn't heat the air but does a great job of getting the engine bay above "witches tit" temps :o :shock: A small overhead or floor unit would speed up getting the block and everything warmer then ambient. Just a heads up.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:53 pm 
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Posts: 4687
Pizzaman wrote:

Huh?? :?

ECU talk, nothing to worry about :lol:


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